Eating these grilled yams is like throwing a delicious discus in the culinary Summer Olympics. You’ll win the gold medal for sure. By “gold medal” I mean that these yams are fucking awesome.Like many places these days, June doesn’t give names to its dishes, like “Caesar Salad” or “Oysters Rockefeller.” Instead, it gives you a lengthy description: we started with a salad of local roots farm lettuce, macerated raisins, and Kurtwood Farms camembert ($9). A festive mixture of chervil, miner’s lettuce, and mustard greens was drizzled in a sweet shallot vinaigrette. The raisins were syrupy and plump and as potent as a Leprechaun’s testicles, which are rumored to be as sweet as all summer in a day, and made of solid gold to boot, and they grant wishes. Maybe they WEREN’T really raisins! Maybe they WERE leprechaun testicles. Those raisins were golden and shriveled and sweet, and if your dream was to eat a really delicious salad, then those raisins certainly ensured your wish would come true. With the greens was a crostini topped with a couple wedges of Kurtwood Farm camembert. The cheese was creamy and hinted of the barnyard, and was so fucking pastoral it was like the culinary equivalent of a painting of a shepherd napping beneath a tree. Maybe there are a couple sheep in the distance in this painting. Maybe some happy little mountains? Some happy little trees? If a cheese makes you channel Bob Ross, you know it’s good.I ordered the tempura purple marbles ($4.50) just because I wanted to see what the fuck they were. Turns out they’re just tiny purple potatoes. The tempura batter was thin and crispy and tasted, unfortunately, like donuts. These were a little bland, but if you dipped them into the accompanying pool of satiny aioli then it was okay. Much better were the grilled yams ($5.50). For this price you got a couple thick slices of yam, crosshatched with a perfect jet-black grid of grill marks. These were sweet and starchy with just the barest whisper of char from the grill. Like the tempura purple marbles, the yams came with aioli, but the flavor of the yam was complex enough that you didn’t need it.The braised lamb neck with hand cut pasta ($18) was a springtime riot: A nest of thin soft egg noodles dotted periodically with brilliant verdant peas, crunchy chunks of celery, maybe some diced parsley, and sweet cubes of carrot. I assumed, incorrectly, that the lamb would be shredded, but no: it really was a fucking NECK, with vertebra protruding ominously from the center of a column of braised neck meat. The lamb was fatty and flavorful and fell right off of the bone. Only vampires eat necks with more gusto than I ate that lamb neck. If there was ANY flaw (and I would like to preface this by saying it’s a minor quibble), it was that maybe the broth was too salty.The $19 stuffed rabbit leg was fucking crazy. You didn’t just get a roasted rabbit leg, stuffed with spinach and chicken mousse then wrapped in a delicious spiderweb of caul fat, but also a miniature frenched rabbit loin, delicate ribs protruding from the meat, with a tiny fat cap and all, as if someone blasted a prime rib with a shrinking ray. You ALSO got a rich velvety chunk of roasted rabbit liver. This was deliciously obscene. You may as well have loaded a shotgun with sausage and started blasting the contestants of The Biggest Loser. It was an orgy of meat! Really, this dish could’ve been called “Rabbit Three Ways,” but those crafty bastards at June obviously didn’t want to use a tired and dated presentation from Top Chef. After all, three ways are SO 2006. Ask your mom. Finally, a chocolate pot du creme ($7) was like foamy and so light it was almost effervescent, as if your taste buds took a bubble bath in Nestle Quik, and topped with a delicate quenelle of whipped cream. This dessert could have only been more imperial if you licked it off Marie Antoinette’s nipple.June is fucking rad: it’s affordable. It’s tasty as fuck. The decor is stylish, and the service is competent and understated. I keep waiting for the other shoe to drop. Is June going to end up flawed somehow, like its predecessor at this location, Cremant? Is June like a really hot girl who steals things for fun? I doubt it because June rules.Rating: 9 mixed metaphors out of 10June is located at 1423 34th AveFor reservations call 206-323-4000