credit: licorous.comIf the idea of a big, sit-down dinner on Valentine’s Day

credit: licorous.comIf the idea of a big, sit-down dinner on Valentine’s Day seems like more fuss than you want to invest in, consider going small-scale, and more casual. If you’re lucky enough to sign up for seats to the second annual Pre-Valentine’s Bubble and Bites tasting at Licorous, consider yourself charmed. (Reservations were going fast, and the hours of the event were being extended, when I last spoke with the staff.) Five small plates will be paired with five French sparkling wines, prepared by Jonathan Sundstrom (and staff), in tandem with wine expert Jason Marvin, from the Pike and Western wine shop.The menu (straight from sister restaurant Lark’s site):Champagnes:NV Patrick Bottex Vin du Bugey CerdonBrut 2005 Martinolles Cremant de LimouxNV Labastide-Gallac VouvrayPierre Moncuit Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand CruNV Dumont Brut RosePairings:Dungeness crab with green apple and fennelCauliflower cream with Stellar Bay oyster, tarragon oilCuttlefish and hearts of palm salad with blood orange and crispy shallotRabbit loin and rillettes with celery root and black trufflePierre Robert with poached pear, grains of paradise and beetSaturday, February 13, 2-4:30 p.m., and later. Licorous, 928 12th Ave., 323-5275.$50. Reservations required.