Chef John Sundstrom’s trifecta is now complete with SLAB Sandwiches + Pie, which opened earlier this month.
Nestled right below Lark and Bitter/Raw—Sundstrom’s other two projects—in the Central Agency Building on Capitol Hill, SLAB is open Monday thru Friday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. The space is a bit small (there’s only three to four barstool seats), so it’s more of a grab-and-go place for breakfast and lunch. Along with its sandwiches and pies, SLAB serves coffee and espresso and a selection of meats and cheeses.
Currently, SLAB offers a total of seven made-to-order breakfast and lunch sandwiches ranging from $7 to $11 (plus an additional $2 for substituting any sandwich with gluten-free flatbread), and three savory and sweet pies from $6 to $9. Each pie or sandwich comes on butcher paper with a piece of tape on the corner for easy to-go wrapping.
I was skeptical of the Spanish sardine sandwich ($9). Compared to other selections on the menu such as the 12-hour brisket sandwich or the Cubano, sardines—not exactly my go-to fish—didn’t seem appealing. However, its uniqueness and a staffer’s assurance that it was one of the more popular sandwiches, intrigued me.
A sardine sandwich is one of those things that, if executed poorly, can end up terribly salty or too ‘fishy’ and mushy. SLAB’s Spanish sardine sandwich was not either of those things. The sardines itself weren’t overpowering and the mix of veggies and sauce made for a vibrant look and dynamic flavor. The “piperade”—a mixture of peppers, onion, and tomato—gave the sandwich a nice crunch that offsets the soft fish. Along with the lemon juice and arugula, each bite had a nice tang and freshness to it.
The SLAB meat pie ($9), at present the only savory pie on the menu, is a must-try. This pre-made pocket-shaped pie is heated up to the perfect temperature when ordered. The slightly flakey crust contains chunks of soft and chewy short ribs, caramelized onion, and mushrooms—a combo that sent my taste buds soaring with each bite. It seems so simple, yet has complex layers of flavor.
If you’re going for breakfast, go with the Farro bread toast topped with smashed avocado and tomato ginger jam ($7), which customers love, according to the same worked who sold me on the sardines.
As for something on the sweet side, it’s hard to resist the SLAB chocolate pie with house made smoked marshmallow. The pie can be enjoyed there, or you can take it with you, along with instructions on how to heat it up later, and dig into it in the comfort of your home.
