The nachos are just ridiculous. Im sorry, but three kinds of dairy melted, crumbled, and daubed on one ginormous mound of corn chips straddles the divide between simple excess and culinary lunacy. Order the feta nachos ($10.99) at Capitol Hills most self-consciously quirky watering hole, and you find yourself confronted with the event horizon of snacking. Indeed, this alcohol-taming repast is less a nosh than a complete and very filling meal for two (or three). At the sight of the these crazy nachosslathered in jack cheese, sour cream, and salsa, then topped with feta, kalamata olives, and hummus, for a rollicking Mex-meets-Med experiencea friend commented that if nachos were to travel in large packs, as these seemed to do, they should be referred to as a destruction of nachos, in much the same way that a flock of crows is called a murder. One glimpse of the Bleus bounty will remind you what a genius invention nachos must have seemed to early barflies, and how destruction can be a beautiful, beautiful sight. NEAL SCHINDLER 202 Broadway Ave. E., 206-329-3087. CAPITOL HILL