A weekly Voracious feature in which we walk into a bar unannounced and ask the bartender to make us his or her favorite drink.First come the royal purple, flowing short pants with gold pinstriping–too trendy. Next it’s the pink capris, babydoll tank and black heels with the effect of looking like I should be hostessing at the joint, not drinking there. Then I remember the suit. A sleek black number with silk pinstripes an old flame gave me when I finished graduate school so I could interview at reputable news outlets. I ended up here and never even took the tags off–I throw on the pants, a purple peasant frock, black jacket and favorite red suede stilettos–necessary because the legs are too long and I haven’t made it to a tailor. I dig out my silver hoop earrings, smudge a little charcoal around the eyes and hunt down a full-length mirror.Shazam!I’ve just gone from dorky, awkward, dive-bar boozing, alt weekly writer to Seattle sophisticate. This rare transformation is the result of a trip to Canlis–Seattle’s answer to everyone who complains that khakis have gained far too much acceptance in this town. It features one of the most elegant, delicious, and expensive menus in the city and the patrons dress to match. Since we’re going for some East Coast swank, my friend Kimberly and I agree to meet at a New Yorkish 9 p.m. for cocktails and lounge music.She arrives in a black wrap dress and striking boots–borrowed from a friend after a similar bout of wardrobe agony. Kimberly and I go back to elementary school. We grew up on the same street. Our birthdays are two days apart. Other than that, we’re kind of a yin and yang pair, but starting in junior high we would meet for raspberry iced teas at a trendy Spokane bistro to dish, dream and feel like grownups. Getting to do it in striking black ensemble with fully loaded cocktails–we’ve really come full circle.Anyshoe (and they were great shoes) enough about me. “Barkeep, bring me your best!”Watering hole: (Actually the word “hole” should probably never again be used in the context of discussing this place) Canlis, 2576 Aurora Ave N., 283-3313, www.canlis.comMixologist: James MacWilliamsAnd what are we drinking this evening? McWilliams has read First Call it turns out and is completely unintimidated by the concept. We chat a bit as he gets started. I feel a little thrill as out comes the whiskey, cherries and then… maple syrup? “It’s a Maple Old Fashioned,” he explains. “You see, my favorite donut is a maple old fashioned and I thought, wouldn’t it be great if there was a drink called the maple old fashioned? And this is what I came up with.”He starts with a grade B maple syrup (I nod, pretending I know what that means) because: “I find it’s a little heartier, more rustic.” Added to that is rye whiskey and bitters with a cherry that’s been cooked with bourbon, orange peels and simple syrup.Kimberly looks over the drink menu, drawn to the non-alcoholic Air Ade, described as a sparkling lavender lemonade with pomegranate air. I have no idea what that is, but it sounds like something fairies drink out of honeysuckle tumblers. “Don’t say that I’m thinking about ordering that,” she tells me. I assure her I won’t (sorry!) but as we go back and forth on the couthness of ordering a booze deficient concoction at a place like this, MacWilliams sets one down. “I think you’re just thirsty,” he tells her. She is and what a heavenly way to quench it. MacWilliams then whips her up a Lady in Satin–a Dry Fly gin cocktail with violet liqueur and a splash of fresh lemon and champagne–it’s just as fit for a princess as the under-21 friendly pomegranate air, with a very grown up alcohol content. Somehow in the few minutes we’ve tittered over getting dressed up and coming to Canlis, MacWilliams has read us perfectly–my whiskey-based maple concoction dodges that too-too-sweet bullet and Kimberly’s is like something out of Anne of Green Gables (a long-time favorite) if our dear heroine was nursing a bit of an alcoholic streak.“Part of being a bar tender is being able to read people,” MacWilliams explains.Well done, sir.