Getting to know Kau Kau’s Chinese barbecue is like getting to know gin. You start with something mild—like the barbecue pork, maybe touched up with a little hot mustard and a few seeds. But once your palate is refined (and pickled from all the salt), you’ll be heading straight for the roast pork (chunks of bacon, effectively) by the pound, and drenching it in the hottest mustard you’d ever care to meet. The chicken and duck have their place, but at the best barbecue joint in town, the pig reigns supreme. CHRIS KORNELIS 656 S. King St., 682-4006, kaukaubbq.com