“If the price tags at Nordstrom’s can be trusted, most of Bea’s

October 29, 2012 12:00 am
The plump sweetbreads are crisped just enough to contextualize their starkly fabulous creaminess, which lolls deliciously on the tongue. A spray of apple gastrique gives the appetizer a honeyed flavor, but the sweetness is balanced by salty capers and the plate's central clump of bitter, woodsy frisee.
The plump sweetbreads are crisped just enough to contextualize their starkly fabulous creaminess, which lolls deliciously on the tongue. A spray of apple gastrique gives the appetizer a honeyed flavor, but the sweetness is balanced by salty capers and the plate's central clump of bitter, woodsy frisee.

“If the price tags at Nordstrom’s can be trusted, most of Bea’s guests spent more on their pants than their wine-enhanced dinners for two. It’s a sartorial choice that’s perfectly in keeping with the vibe of the restaurant, which was designed to be simultaneously comfy and stylish. Bea is rarely both of those, but it’s usually one or the other, depending on the evening and what you’ve ordered. As a result, the restaurant feels about as essential as Citizens of Humanity jeans: You can certainly get by without it, but you’ll likely have an enjoyable evening should you end up there.”Read the rest of Hanna Raskin’s review here.Photos by Joshua Huston.Published on June 18, 2012

Another food geek favorite stars in a homey take on rabbit, platedwith tender knobs of spaetzle; fava beans cooked to the cusp ofpopping and sturdy, teardrop-shaped Thumbelina carrots. Homegarden-variety carrots might have serviced for the dish, steeped in a dusky sauce, but Bea's menu is admirably rife with slightly offbeat ingredients.

Another food geek favorite stars in a homey take on rabbit, platedwith tender knobs of spaetzle; fava beans cooked to the cusp ofpopping and sturdy, teardrop-shaped Thumbelina carrots. Homegarden-variety carrots might have serviced for the dish, steeped in a dusky sauce, but Bea’s menu is admirably rife with slightly offbeat ingredients.

Cocoa caramel crunchvanilla: poached apricots & whipped cream.

Cocoa caramel crunchvanilla: poached apricots & whipped cream.

Chef Tom Black and Kate Perry, owners of Bea.

Chef Tom Black and Kate Perry, owners of Bea.

Bea is at its best when Black gives in to his cheffy urges. Before taking a three-year kitchen hiatus, Black acquired 25 years of restaurant experience, including successful stints as executive chef of restaurants such as Fuller's, 35th Street Bistro and The Barking Frog. In an interview with Voracious, Black blamed the rigors of hotelrestaurants for temporarily dimming his love of professional cooking: aEœIt never shuts down,aE he said of the standard three-meal-a-day, 365-day-a-year schedule.

Bea is at its best when Black gives in to his cheffy urges. Before taking a three-year kitchen hiatus, Black acquired 25 years of restaurant experience, including successful stints as executive chef of restaurants such as Fuller’s, 35th Street Bistro and The Barking Frog. In an interview with Voracious, Black blamed the rigors of hotelrestaurants for temporarily dimming his love of professional cooking: aEœIt never shuts down,aE he said of the standard three-meal-a-day, 365-day-a-year schedule.

Line cooks Elijah Distefano (left) and Rich Coffey.

Line cooks Elijah Distefano (left) and Rich Coffey.

Chef Black looks over the orders before sending them out to tables.

Chef Black looks over the orders before sending them out to tables.

The bar.

The bar.

Bartender Craig making drinks during a dinner rush.

Bartender Craig making drinks during a dinner rush.

The Frankie: tequila, rhubarb shrub, tasmanian peppercorn & dolin blanc.

The Frankie: tequila, rhubarb shrub, tasmanian peppercorn & dolin blanc.

Before Bea was Bea, it was June, a sister restaurant to Queen Anne's Portage that lasted just over a year. Black and Perry have hung onto the sloped cloud-gray banquettes that line either side of the dining room, but the tables and chairs are now front-porch white. Putting the stress mark on dainty, the owners have also added wallpaper in a pink floral pattern that's typically only seen on perfume bottles and barrel racers' blouses. A yard or two of exposed concrete remains between the floor and the wallpaper's bottom edge, but the overall effect tilts toward tearoom. aEœI feel like I'm in a dollhouse,aE one of my dining companions said.

Before Bea was Bea, it was June, a sister restaurant to Queen Anne’s Portage that lasted just over a year. Black and Perry have hung onto the sloped cloud-gray banquettes that line either side of the dining room, but the tables and chairs are now front-porch white. Putting the stress mark on dainty, the owners have also added wallpaper in a pink floral pattern that’s typically only seen on perfume bottles and barrel racers’ blouses. A yard or two of exposed concrete remains between the floor and the wallpaper’s bottom edge, but the overall effect tilts toward tearoom. aEœI feel like I’m in a dollhouse,aE one of my dining companions said.

Server Sharesa, bringing food to the Moree family's table.

Server Sharesa, bringing food to the Moree family’s table.

Restaurant Bea, 1423 34th Ave., (206)812-2901, restaurantbea.com

Restaurant Bea, 1423 34th Ave., (206)812-2901, restaurantbea.com