From the sidewalk, it doesn’t even look like there’s a restaurant inside La Conasupo Market. Situated on a stretch of Greenwood Avenue next door to a run-of-the-mill Mexican restaurant and another Latino grocery store, it appears to be just a regular old tienda that peddles sundry goods and prepaid calling cards. But way in the back, beyond the shelves, a little lunch counter does booming business with the construction-worker/day-laborer crowd. The draw is tacos heaped with mounds of pulled pork (carnitas) and grilled beef (asada), along with a broad selection of gigantic quesadillas nearly the size of the colorful pinatas dangling above the dining area. The tacos are relatively pricey ($4–$5, depending on the meat), but the portions are so generous it’s almost like getting two for the price of one. On weekends the kitchen cooks a special barbecued lamb and a consomme de barbacoa, a soup made with the drippings, that attracts more families than hungry men on their lunch breaks. Sadly, beer isn’t available, but consider leaving an offering at the Virgin Mary shrine and pray the place gets its liquor license—that might be the only thing that could make it better. KEEGAN HAMILTON 8532 Greenwood Ave. N., 782-0533