Cucina DeSantis

Published 7:00 am Monday, October 9, 2006

“You’ll want to grab a fork and knife for this,” said the (presumably) DeSantis family member behind the counter as he handed us our eggplant Parmesan sandwich. And when we got back to the office and unwrapped it, we understood why. While this newish SoDo spot is billed as an Italian family kitchen, the eggplant parm isn’t necessarily the way we remember it from the old country. And hey, we’re not complaining, but since when has focaccia bread been a part of the equation? Much harder to pick up and eat but still deliriously delicious, DeSantis’ slightly twisted version of this classic sandwich wins points for smoky eggplant zing, sweet, chunky red sauce, and just the right touch of mozzarella, but it lost points with a few of the tidier types among our ranks. Try a sausage or meatball sandwich if you’re looking for a meaty meal, and do make sure you order a sturdy bread carrier if the thought of knife-and-forking your way through a hero turns you off. Otherwise, the soups and salads look great; even if the DeSantis family takes a few liberties here and there, the key flavors seem true to the old world. 1759 First Ave. S., 206-587-4222. SODO