Let’s just imagine for a minute that all those condos and strip malls weren’t there and Lake Washington was called Lago di Como. Cafe Juanita, chef Holly Smith’s slice of culinary paradise, would be right at home in the Italian countryside. Even when you check back in with reality, it’s easy to forget you’re in suburbia while sipping an aperitif and stuffing your face with lardo. There’s no going wrong anywhere on the menu; the biggest challenge is to not go overboard and order too much at this romantic restaurant. Bring your honey—and a thick wad of money—and share the octopus, an exceptional pasta, and a couple of mains. One bite of the signature stuffed coniglio (that’s bunny, baby!) and you’ll never want to leave. Ask Dawn the som to pair wines with your meal. She’s aces. LESLIE KELLY 9702 N.E. 120th Pl., Kirkland, 425-823-1505, cafejuanita.com