“What makes Anthony’s Seafood Grill such a compelling model for the mainstreaming

“What makes Anthony’s Seafood Grill such a compelling model for the mainstreaming of the local-and-seasonal mantra is the restaurant’s savvy avoidance of anything which could be construed as daring. Anthony’s wants to comfort, not challenge.”Read the rest of Hanna Raskin’s review here.Photos by Joshua Huston.Published on February 20, 2012

A happy hour favorite, chicken tacos.

A happy hour favorite, chicken tacos.

The Ahi nachos plate is set with four freshly-fried taro chips piled with bits of pineapple and diced dawn-pink tuna, and squiggled with just enough stinging wasabi aioli to offset the underlying sweetness.

The Ahi nachos plate is set with four freshly-fried taro chips piled with bits of pineapple and diced dawn-pink tuna, and squiggled with just enough stinging wasabi aioli to offset the underlying sweetness.

Meaty roasted Penn Cove mussels, popped open wide as catcher's mitts, are sunk in a lemony white wine sauce strewn with rosemary stalks.

Meaty roasted Penn Cove mussels, popped open wide as catcher’s mitts, are sunk in a lemony white wine sauce strewn with rosemary stalks.

Chinook salmon

Chinook salmon

The mussels, slick with butter, were glutted with flavor.

The mussels, slick with butter, were glutted with flavor.

The fish fried in a sweet-leaning batter was perfectly crisped.

The fish fried in a sweet-leaning batter was perfectly crisped.

Tiny cinnamon-dusted doughnuts accompanied by a mug of chocolate sorbet capped with Bailey's whipped cream.

Tiny cinnamon-dusted doughnuts accompanied by a mug of chocolate sorbet capped with Bailey’s whipped cream.

It's best to dine with however many companions you'll need to justify ordering both the supremely tart blackberry cobbler.

It’s best to dine with however many companions you’ll need to justify ordering both the supremely tart blackberry cobbler.

The dining area.

The dining area.

The bar is packed during happy hour.

The bar is packed during happy hour.

Anthony's Seafood Grill, 3000 184th St. SW, Suite 870. 425-771-4665. anthonys.com.

Anthony’s Seafood Grill, 3000 184th St. SW, Suite 870. 425-771-4665. anthonys.com.