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“If you’re serious about wine, you’re already keen to RN74aE”and may very

Published 8:00 am Thursday, November 8, 2012

Diners wait in anticipation as the infamous flip board works its magic.
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Diners wait in anticipation as the infamous flip board works its magic.
Diners wait in anticipation as the infamous flip board works its magic.
Grilled Gruyere sandwich with Tomato soup.
Our servers were especially proud of a thick corn bisque with clumps of Dungeness crab. The soup bobs with sweet piquillo peppers and, in what amounts to a seafood-hater's rumaki, nuggets of white fingerling potatoes wrapped in bacon.
I much preferred a block of beef tartare served with a garlicky aioli and slender, rosemary-flecked fries.
...the precisely cooked cA´te de boeuf, so gloriously beefy that it deserves to be ranked among the city's best steaks, is a looker.
... ramekins of corn and mashed potatoes so creamy they might have been milked straight from a cow's teat.
Thickly cut slabs of duck breastaE”one perfectly cooked, one badly overdoneaE”are laid in opposing, cherry-sauced rows, with hills of farro and chard set between.
A hunk of ivory-fleshed salmon crowned with a slice of foie gras is sunk in a shallow bowl, tightly surrounded by pearl onions and mushrooms.
Much-touted beignets, paired with a supremely alcoholic butterscotch sauce layered with caramel, are dense and bland.
Rarely an empty table among the bustle.
The heart of RN74.

“If you’re serious about wine, you’re already keen to RN74aE”and may very well be there now, sipping a 2005 ChA¢teau Giscours. But if your budget, dining companions, or personal convictions prevent you from ordering a bottle of wine with dinner, there are still many pleasures to savor, not least of which is an emphasis on service and presentation that’s exceedingly rare in Seattle. ” Read Hanna Raskin’s full review of RN74.Photos by Joshua Huston.Published on August 18, 2011

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