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“Some things are meant to stay small. If Hunger’s latest iteration is

Published 7:00 am Monday, October 29, 2012

Hunger, 3601 Fremont Ave. N., (206)402-4854, hungerseattle.com.
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Hunger, 3601 Fremont Ave. N., (206)402-4854, hungerseattle.com.
Hunger, 3601 Fremont Ave. N., (206)402-4854, hungerseattle.com.
Hunger's new restaurant is more than twice the size of the old. Even if there were seated customers—and there weren't on the nights I visited—the room would look enormous.
A scoop of tuna ceviche in the shade of a wheatgrass smoothie is a creamy debacle.
The best dishes at Hunger are the simplest. I liked the zesty saffron tomato sauce that was baked with egg and manchego for a classic tomatada.
The top of a paella had the distinct crunch of under-cooking, it didn't mean the clams and mussels were any less meaty.
Arugula salad with octopus.
The braised boar served slider-style is slightly dry, but a smear of chevre helps.
Short rib ravioli, with brown butter, goat cheese, shallots, mushrooms, and parsley.
"Some things are meant to stay small. If Hunger's latest iteration is
Bartender, Greg West.
Putting the final touches on the cocktail. The orange peels are flammable, explains bartender, Greg West.
Le Petit Jolie - Gin, peyschauds bitters, drinking vinegar, sugar, and orange peel.

“Some things are meant to stay small. If Hunger’s latest iteration is any indication, that rule applies fiercely to tapas bars as well. The Fremont restaurant this spring moved down the block to the expansive venue vacated by Dad Watson’s, a migration which presumably allowed for the preening of artistic feathers that had gotten ruffled in Hunger’s first, partially hidden location. The new restaurant is more than twice the size of the old. Even if there were seated customersaE”and there weren’t on the nights I visited—the room would look enormous.”Read the rest of Hanna Raskin’s review here.Photos by Joshua Huston.Published on July 25, 2012

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