“Fried chicken purists might take exception to Fuller’s way of frying, which

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It's to chef Mark Fuller's credit that he's found a way to seamlessly remake Spring Hill Restaurant, his lauded West Seattle fine-dining destination, as Ma'ono Fried Chicken & Whiskey, a whimsical Hawaiian fried chicken house.

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The menu is constantly evolving as Fuller slyly brushes away Spring Hill's fingerprints, deleting dishes that don't precisely reflect the restaurant's new focus on jazzed-up Pacific Rim cuisine.

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Still, no matter how many times Fuller tinkers with the menu, it'sreally a formality: Most Ma'ono diners come for the chicken.

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Ma'ono's double-fried chicken is also wonderful cold, especially when it's been anointed with one of two sauces. A salty paste of red chili and fermented soybeans or a pungent hot mustard and honey sauce.

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An elegant macaroni salad, dashed with slivered carrots and slicedgreen onions, that probably wouldn't answer to 'mac.'

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Whole Rainbow Trout - Seasoned with Kauai Saltwater, lemon, ogo,cilantro, scallions, and rice.

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Spiced Ham Musubi.

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The gochujang chicken is the ideal counterpart to the sour kimchithat's served with every chicken.

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Bartender Joe working on a Knox Manhattan.

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Knox Manhattan - Knob Creek Bourbon, Punt e Mes, Fernet Branca,Orange Bitters.

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Like the fried chicken, the pie is a marvel of plush and crust,and good reason to look forward to the day when Ma'ono's metamorphosis is complete.

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Ma'ono Fried Chicken & Whisky, 4437 California Ave SW,(206)935-1075. maonoseattle.com. Mon.-Fri., 5 p.m.-10 p.m.; Sat.-Sun., 10 a.m.-2 p.m., 5 p.m.-10 p.m.