The Place: Meander's Kitchen , 9635 16th Ave SW, WHITE CENTER

The Hours: Monday-Friday 7 am - 3 pm, Saturday 8 am - 3 pm,


Meander's Kitchen Gets White Center High on Brunch

The Place: Meander's Kitchen, 9635 16th Ave SW, WHITE CENTER

The Hours: Monday-Friday 7 am - 3 pm, Saturday 8 am - 3 pm, Sunday 9 am - 3 pm

* See also: Shopsin's West, Hold the Insults

Meander's Kitchen Closes West Seattle Location to Focus on White Center

Uptown, Downtown, or Down Home: Down home, waaayyyy downtown. White Center is one of Seattle's most culturally diverse and rapidly changing neighborhoods, but it's hard to ignore the fact it's also a neighborhood where you may lose a choice parking spot to a bum fight. Pardon me if I sound bitter: the departure of Meander's from California Ave to its new locale has left residents of West Seattle feeling like our favorite little indie band, the Buttery Biscuits, just got really famous and now we have to drive to the frickin' Tacoma Dome and wait in line just to see them play. I made three trips there opening week before I could be sat in under 90 minutes. And yes, if you're wondering, Meander's is that good.

Bubbles, Bloodies, or Coffee Black: The coffee is Herkimer and mighty tasty. However, they only have tabletop "pasteurized creamers," which seems odd in a spot known for crafting everything by hand, and whose new locale --an old bar-- has tons of under-the-counter cooler space. There is no booze, but it would be wonderful if there was.

Hungover, Hooked-Up or Hanging with the family: "Family friendly" is an understatement in this place. The new, spacious backroom, with a lounge area and pool table, provides enough room for a rugrat rampage. If your hangover is of the variety that requires a baptism in butter, you will be saved. As I mentioned above, though, there is NO BOOZE. So if inebriation is a must to accept the fact that you have or will be sleeping with the person you are with, this place is not for you.

What's Cooking?: It depends what side of the street you are on. Directly across from Meander's is the NW Cannabis Market. At noon, on a Saturday, if conditions are just right, you will smell bacon, fresh buttery waffles and the most exquisite marijuana the region has to offer - - a scent that if bottled could be sold as Jerry Garcia's Last Breath. Attentive readers may have noticed my third reference to butter. That's because it's impossible to talk about Meander's Kitchen and not talk about butter-- it is a burgeoning franchise built on the stuff. And though I wouldn't recommend it more than once a week, there is something magical that happens when you just say "fuck the coronary" and cook potatoes in butter.

If butter doesn't float your boat, the gravy, with its silver dollar chunks of tasty sausage, will. You can have them both by the pound in the Hangover (double order of crispy browns topped with homemade sausage gravy and two eggs, severed with a biscuit-$9.50). The cheese grits (offered with menu items instead of browns) are smooth, yet maintain their "grit" and are worth the additional side order ($3.75).

Wait times require patience here, but the heavenly little beignets (3 for $3.50) are turned out quickly and are made only better with a dollop of the house Marionberry jam. I wish I could report on the coffee cake ($3.25), but by 11:30 am on a Monday they were already sold out. Fortunately, the French Toast (three slabs of vanilla, bourbon-battered challah grilled and topped with whipped cream and fresh fruit- $8.75), when paired with the house orange cardamom syrup, will quell any sweet tooth. Weekday visitors be warned: Meander's will warrant a weekend return, as on Saturday and Sunday you can get fresh waffles done a variety of ways, including with fried chicken.

Follow Voracious on Facebook & Twitter.

comments powered by Disqus