The Deets : Amidst>"/>
The Eats: Proletariat Pizza, 9622 16th Ave. SW, 432-9765, White Center. Pizzeria and tap house.
Power to the pizza!
The Deets: Amidst the less savory qualities of bustling downtown White Center, a few establishments, like nearby Company Bar, Full Tilt Ice Cream, and Proletariat Pizza provide a PG experience to White Center imbibers and families in search of food and drink. Proletariat, true to its name, carries the least airs of the bunch. You'll not find fancy ice cream here, or craft cocktails, but rather, two staples of the working man's diet: pizza and beer.
Inside, the pizzeria is warm--both from the temperature of the enormous ovens and the friendly, young waitstaff--and often humming with the buzz of families, groups of friends, and couples chatting over communal tables.
Service is generally quick, though things can get tied up when the dining room is stuffed with squealing kids, as it often is. The place is an oasis for west side parents, and they use it liberally (and it's one of the only places on the planet where soccer moms and their tots rub elbows with the pull tab-peeling regulars of the Locker Room). If you can shrug off the occasional spray of beer from a passing pitcher, or welcome a stranger's child vying for your attention, you'll like Proletariat for the strong sense of community--and great pizza--it brings to the neighborhood.
The Beets: Speaking of pizza, Proletariat offers a little bit of everything: standard pies, updated classics, and for us herbivores, some great vegetarian options. There's an antipasti starter and a green salad that sound decent enough, but the thought of greenery--or any non-pizza food, for that matter--will likely go right out the window once the irresistible aroma of baked dough and cheese hits you on entry.
My suggestion--go White in White Center. You've got your pick of basic Cheese, the classic Margherita, the dairy-tastic Five Cheese, and the Vegetarian, but the olive oil based White Center White and Potato options are the best here. Proletariat does an exceptional New York style crust--it's thin, but not soggy, and stands up to a strong fold. The WC White, with ricotta, lots of fresh garlic, and motz is simple and satisfying, and the toppings are evenly distributed and don't overload the slice. The Potato, with gorgonzola, chives, and thinly sliced red potato is as pretty to look at as it is to eat. You wouldn't think the starchy potato would make a good topping, but thinly sliced, next to a bit of fragrant gorg and zesty chives, it's an ingenious combination.
The Tweet: Whether you're a wage-worker or bourgeoisie, Proletariat's blue collar sense of hospitality and great olive oil based vegetarian pies are worth returning for.