banchanfoodlead.jpg
If you're interested in what's happening at Chan , the "modern Korean fusion" restaurant that this spring opened below Bacco , you can read my

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Chan's Single-Minded Review Quest

banchanfoodlead.jpg
If you're interested in what's happening at Chan, the "modern Korean fusion" restaurant that this spring opened below Bacco, you can read my review here. The same offer's available to the folks behind the eatery, but I'm not certain they'll take me up on it.

I usually use this space to probe weighty, universal issues raised by my latest review, but "Reviewing the Review" is also a handy trough for scraps from my notebook, including specific anecdotes that don't belong in a formal review but are too good not to share. At Chan, that kind of anecdote arose from my first visit, when I was seated at the bar.

Before catching Will Ferrell and Zach Galifianakis at Local Color last month, I stopped by Chan for bibimbap (the restaurant's no longer serving lunch.) My bar seat put me in the front row for a conversation between a server and a woman who appeared to be the meal's supervising chef.

The server returned excitedly from her table, business cards in hand. She explained to the chef that her three male customers worked for a local publication, perhaps one with ties to the business or Asian community. I didn't catch the paper's name, but it provoked a sneer from the chef who explained she didn't care about a review from any paper other than the Seattle Times. "That's who I'm waiting for," she said. "That's the only review that matters."

Presumably she has no interest in my opinions of the snacks and cocktails at Chan (which uses a logo that suggests the restaurant's name should be spelled with a colon between the "a" and the "n," but apparently that's a design thing.) If she was curious, she'd click here. And if she wanted to see her food at its most beautiful, she'd also click the link for Joshua Huston's slideshow. You're up, Provi.

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