mushpiedelancey.JPG
For eaters who dine out every night, whether for professional or personal reasons, the chalkboard of daily add-ons at Delancey functions much like a farmers

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100 Favorite Dishes: Crimini Pizza at Delancey

mushpiedelancey.JPG
For eaters who dine out every night, whether for professional or personal reasons, the chalkboard of daily add-ons at Delancey functions much like a farmers market trip for home cooks. Each exquisitely fresh ingredient, be it a garlic scape or padron pepper, sets the mind whirling with supper fantasies. What might I do with preserved lemons? How can I put arugula to good use?

But the foremost question revolves around the foundational pie. There are eight pizzas on Delancey's menu, waiting to be garnished (or not, depending on the diner's inclinations.) They're all good. The crimini is great.

The thinly-sliced crimini mushrooms atop the pizza have the yellowed patina and brittle snap of a very old document, or at least the facsimiles that kids buy in museum gift shops. Each mushroom, sweating umami-packed mushroom juice, is like a little Constitution - which is just about right, since the pie nicely expresses the core values of Delancey and the surrounding Seattle dining scene.

The minimalist crimini pizza, featuring fresh mozarella, olive oil and thyme aboard its signature crackly crust, is a celebration of handiwork, purity and the earth in all its ready-to-forage glory. No preserved lemons required.

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