Off the Rez bills itself as "Seattle's first Native American food truck." Well, yeah. Most any time the words "Native American food" are raised in a commercial context, they're preceded by "first" or "only." Native American cuisine isn't even a blip on the national restaurant scene.
So Mark McConnell gets credit for taking a chance on frybread, if specializing in swine fat, sugar and savory doughnuts can be considered risky. McConnell and his girlfriend Cecilia Rickard sell the powwow snack topped with an array of dessert condiments or beef, chicken, vegetables or pork.
Off the Rez's inflated pads of bread aren't quite as big as those typically sold at Native gatherings, which can resemble seat cushions, and they're a tad lumpier, so are better suited for utensils than a pair of hands. Toppings deviate from tradition, too: The meats are garnished with sliced radishes and cabbage instead of iceberg lettuce and shredded orange cheese.
But golly, they're good: Fried golden, the bread's an intricate hive of airy, light dough. The slow-cooked pork, finished with a honey-heavy sauce, is wonderfully tender, and embroidered with crispy bits. It's perhaps not Seattle's most nuanced sandwich, but it's among the most enjoyable - and certainly one of the smartest.