Focused sports fans could conceivably spend an entire game at Sport Restaurant and leave without a clue that the casual bar belonged to John Howie. Unless, of course, they ordered the chili.
Sport's chili is the product of a culinary mind that prizes steak. Uninterrupted by beans, the Texas-style chili is thick with slabs of browned chuck and tweaked with four different chili powders. Rather than float the paprika-fueled chili with dainty oyster crackers, Sport garnishes its cowboy stew with bobbing nubbins of pork. For crunch, there are slender tortilla strips beneath a crowning bouquet of shredded cheddar cheese and mild salsa.
The Seattle Times' Rebekah Denh, also a fan of the chili, a few years ago talked the recipe out of Howie, so there's nothing secret about its ground coriander and pineapple juice. If you were so inclined, you could reproduce the dish at home. But unless you own a ginormous TV, you're probably better off at Sport come game time.