Meats and pasta shapes may change at LloydMartin, Sam Crannell's regrettably under-attended restaurant atop Queen Anne, but don't allow the shifts and tweaks to distract you: Just keep your eye on the bolognese.
Variously made with elk, venison and bison, the full-flavored bolognese -- a blend of tomatoes, milk and moxie -- tastes like what your grandmother might have made if her husband was an especially accomplished sportsman. But your grandmother didn't make a sauce like this. If she did, you'd be living with her now. The subtly sweet bolognese is served over housemade noodles, perhaps tender strands of fettuccine or skinned knobs of gnocchi.
With its dim lighting and dark wooden fixtures, LloydMartin has the look of a humidor. It's the ideal setting for enjoying a dish made from game. Or, really, any dish: As Voracious contributor Julien Perry and I keep saying, there are too many empty tables at LloydMartin. So go and eat whatever you choose. You'll love it, and an uptick in traffic can only help secure my bolognese supply.