Mike Easton makes pasta in all kinds of shapes. His noodle portfolio includes tubular occhi di lupo, ropy strozzapreti, oblong ravioli and bow-tie farfalle. But I'm most fond of the pastas susceptible to a fork twirl, since Easton's symbiotic pasta shop has become so popular that there's no room for full-body twirling, which would be an appropriate response to many of the dishes at Il Corvo.
Easton last year opened Il Corvo in Procopio Gelateria, daily serving three different handcrafted pastas sauced with whatever edible treasure he's been able to secure. Last month, Easton treated customers to house-cured salmon, black lemons, ramps and the season's first asparagus. It's not uncommon for parties of two to order all three dishes. It's not inadvisable for one person to do the same.
The sauces are generally excellent, but it's the pasta that puts Il Corvo atop the list of perks enjoyed by downtown workers. (Easton, late of Lecosho, neatly balances life and work by shutting down at 3 p.m.) The pasta - specifically, the spaghetti - is always cooked to a brawny al dente, so none of its fresh flavor is lost to floppiness. The pasta is earthy, nutty and shaggy with the residual character of actual grains. That's surely worth a twirl.