Tom Douglas loves crab cakes! (or so the title of his 2006 compilation of 50 different crab cake recipes claims.) But crab meat isn't just for shaping and frying: At Seatown, his terrific Pike Place salute to fresh seafood, Douglas puts picked crab on Caesar salads and folds it into green tomato sandwiches.
Yet the very best Dungeness crab-enhanced dish at Seatown is a fried egg sandwich, vaulted from simple to superb by hunks of sweet crab meat. The sandwich of egg, avocado and Beecher's cheese can be modified with bacon instead of crab, but that option's likely meant to appease the tourists who drift over from Pike Place. Around the Sound, salt ought to come from the sea.
Without bacon, the sandwich is a tad soft: It's seated on a cushy bun that's predictably good (every Tom Douglas dish on the favorite dish list crossed paths with an oven), and the egg is correctly cooked to an over-medium finish, which means it has a bit of goop and give. But it makes for a winning hand-held breakfast that's quintessentially Seattle, and quintessentially Tom Douglas.
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