On a sleepy Sunday morning, especially one which follows a late Saturday night, a fork and knife can feel like an awful lot of fuss. Fortuitously, no utensils are needed for Cafe Lago's stellar breakfast pizza.
The breakfast pizza has all the hallmarks of the pies served at other hours: The crackly, thin crust --tattooed with burns from the wood-fired oven - has a lovely bounce of chew. But this isn't last night's dish trotted out for the brunching set: The toppings are extraordinarily a.m.-specific.
Aboard the pizza is a wobbly over-easy egg, sitting just off-center, that's an easy match for the bright tomato sauce, full-bodied crust, rosemary and nutty Parmesan cheese grated over the top. Most importantly, though, there's pork: The pie's covered in stamps of bacon. The bacon's a tad spicy - "this is much too spicy for children," a stern patron recently chided a server - but it's a welcome sting. On Sunday morning, who couldn't use another wake up-call?