In 1982, a Dallas bowler whose son's scorecards were lousy with no-point frames shoved carpet rolls down the gutters where his kid's ball invariably landed. The fatherly solution evolved into bumper bowling, an adaptation that ensures every roll results in a pin drop, and nobody leaves the alley unhappy.
But there's a far simpler way to skirt disappointment at Roxbury Lanes, where the attached Chinese diner serves garlic wings guaranteed to relieve any bowling frustrations. The jointed wings -- in Chinese style, their tips are left intact -- sport a shiny crust teeming with garlic and brine. More garlic and diced scallions are mounded atop the dry fried wings, adding an extra soppy sweetness to the tanned chicken.
Beneath the crust, the plump meat is tender and salty. These wings are easily the equal of any wing in the International District, and a fine consolation prize for a game badly bowled. Indeed, if this dish awaits the loser, it might behoove Roxbury Lanes' bowlers to start rolling with their non-dominant hands.