Seattle's little-discussed chicken scene last year vaulted forward with the in-city arrival of San Fernando, which previously only served its signature pollo a la brasa in Lynnwood.
Most Peruvian restaurants serve an unabashedly garlicky grilled chicken, but San Fernando's version is distinguished by terrifically moist meat and crisp, shiny skin with a scruff of char. This is a chicken around which to plan picnics.
San Fernando provides chicken eaters with a chorus line of condiments, but the chicken's too juicy to require a spritz of spicy huacatay sauce, made from a minty Peruvian herb that's a tarragon cognate. Hang on to the mayonaise, though: It's the ideal complement to San Fernando's indispensable salty fries.