The first dish on our list of 100 Favorite Dishes isn't a dish at all, although a startling number of the city's great dishes depend on it. While Columbia City Bakery's pain de campagne is brilliant with a pat of good butter and salt, it's the loaf you want after you've dispatched every mussel in your bowl, or have decided the vestiges of a pasta dish are too good to return to the dishroom uneaten.
It's such a desirable loaf that restaurants now routinely charge for it, and no restaurant yet has assigned it a price that overvalues the earthy, crusty bread. A pain de campage is supposed to be complex, but Columbia City's version is Joycean in its depth. And while it may not qualify as a dish, there's no shame in filling up on the stuff should the accompanying entree not match its excellence. It rarely does.