The Place: Proletariat Pizza , 9622 16th Ave SW, 432-9765, WHITE CENTER.

The Hours: 4-5:30 p.m., Mon.-Thurs., dine-in only.

The Deal: Whole 18" pies


Proletariat Pizza: a Family-Friendly Oasis in Hardscrabble White Center

The Place: Proletariat Pizza, 9622 16th Ave SW, 432-9765, WHITE CENTER.

The Hours:4-5:30 p.m., Mon.-Thurs., dine-in only.

The Deal: Whole 18" pies for the price of a half. For instance, an 18" Favorite (sausage, garlic, Mama Lil's peppers) that would normally set you back $19 only costs $11 during happy hour.

The Digs: When it opened a couple years ago, Proletariat Pizza, which serves mammoth New York-style pies and local pitchers of beer in an ultra-kid-friendly environment, seemed to cement White Center's conversion from a seedy, oft-violent southwestern fringe to a diverse epicenter for working-class families of all colors and creeds. But then the neighborhood suffered an unfortunate string of gang violence and drug busts this past fall, and people were reminded that White Center won't quit being White Center without a very sloppy bar fight.

The reality is that, with White Center, you take the pleasant with the unruly; rare is the neighborhood that commits to Christ overnight. And with a play nook for kids and communal tables, Proletariat exemplifies the pleasant. Its happy hour, which ends at 5:30, might seem a little strict at first blush. But for parents of young children, such a forced march can be viewed as a blessing, as taking kids out to eat within a feature film's length of their bedtime often proves a fool's errand.

The Verdict: It's one thing for a restaurant to be kid-friendly, but the challenge is to be kid-friendly while letting adults be adults. The pizzas are of high quality, but it's the ice-cold beer from stellar breweries like Two Beers that illustrate Proletariat's concern for those who haven't worn a diaper in over two decades.

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