Tarte aux Pommes as Apple Turnover

Eve M. Tai
Apple turnover, Frenchie style
Le Fournil Bakery in Eastlake bills itself as a "True French Bakery." And indeed with sympathique offerings such as Paris Brest and items named Paysanne this and gateau that, you'd have no reason to doubt the veracity of this claim. Le Fournil consistently turns out pastries that bewitch the eye and the tastebuds.

A recent run to Central Market in Shorewood yielded a happy discovery in the baked goods case -- apple turnovers by Le Fournil. It may be a True French Bakery, but it is anything but snooty if you can score their goodies at a grocery store.

True, Central Market is not your average supermarket, but still, they could have gone all upscale on us by calling the Le Fournil apple turnover "tarte aux pommes."Mais non. Here are turnovers -- there's a marionberry one too -- for the people.

Le Fournil's turnover is fashioned in the usual way, with a square cut of dough folded to form a triangular pocket that holds the apple filling. The puff pastry was dense and buttery and piled with thin layers, yet thankfully it didn't explode into a million flakes that went up your nostrils. The seep factor was spot-on too -- just a little apple filling leaked at the seams, enough to promise indulgence without getting your fingers all sticky. The filling leaned on the mild side -- put another way, the apples could use a little flavor boost -- but now that apple season is underway, these turnovers should hit their peak right about now.

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