All the sophistication's on the plate, since the pint-sized pastaria's surroundings are gawky at best. To reach Mike Easton's handmade pasta spot--housed in Procopio Gelateria, which hasn't surrendered any of its ice-cream-shop vibe--I had to navigate through a scrum of children awaiting entry to a bug exhibit.The payoff was a selection of antipasti and four pastas, each priced at an even $9 with tax. The pasta preparations change daily, although Easton keeps a running roster on his blog. Today's menu included sage papardelle with lemon cream; cavatelli with salsa peperonata, and raviolini stuffed with artichoke. (According to the blog, fresh morels are on tap for tomorrow.)
I had spaghetti with briny cured tuna heart, crushed Calabrian chiles, olive oil, and parsley leaves, a combination that paired beautifully with the sunlight streaming through the café's windows. While the dish had perhaps a touch too much oil, the ingredients evoked the feverish, lascivious spring that many chefs forsake in favor of celebrating the season's tender greens. The noodles, of course, were perfectly cooked.
So what could make Il Corvo better? Probably a glass of wine--and Easton's reportedly working on obtaining his liquor license.