Double the Love at Art of the Table

I initially overlooked the enormity of the opportunity.

"Toasts," the first item on the menu, seemed ordinary enough that I skipped past it to peruse the rest of the Happy Monday menu at Art of the Table. I liked what I saw ahead: salad of sherried chiogga beets and roasted Brussels sprouts, spicy shellfish stew, oxtail and cabbage tian, and rosemary ice cream to accompany a nut and caramel tart. Good thing we did the right thing, which is to order one of everything.

That toast was terrific, topped with smoked salmon mousse, salmon gravlax, olive-caper relish, and crème fraîche. So much so that we ordered seconds of it.

So what does Art of the Table's toast course teach us about sex?

Perhaps there is a time and a place for a threesome.

When done well, I love salmon. As a mousse, spread on toast? Great. Gravlax instead? Great as well!

This night, though, I didn't have to choose. I could have them both--at the same time.

A threesome is tricky. To pull it off, you need to follow some guidelines.

First, you must make sure a threesome fits the value system of all involved. All parties must be comfortable with the idea. Moving forward, you'll want to set up rules and limits so that everyone knows his or her role and how far is acceptable to go. And while alcohol is often a social lubricant, don't be drunk, as that impairs your judgment and makes it challenging to abide by those rules and limits.

If you meet these guidelines, and find yourself in such a situation, be sure to give equal time and attention to both objects of your affection. In regard to the toast, this was no problem for me. Chef Dustin Ronspies set it up perfectly, with the two salmon preparations offering variety in the experience.

One of the "dangers" of a threesome is that it can get overstimulating and overwhelming. That was not the case this night. Heck...I could have even gone further. As I relished the salmon duo, I fantasized about the addition of explosive pop from a little ikura (salmon roe) that would have elevated the experience to a fantastic foursome.

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