"My menu is just out of the printer--just run out of the big copier in a walled-off section near the hostess station--and it, like the space, is big, the options overwhelming. There are fish, oysters, lobsters and crab, soups and salads and sandwiches and steaks and chicken and an entire section devoted to nothing but well-conceived sides. I want to know if Davis' floor staff can possibly have a handle on the extraordinary breadth of this menu, just released into my hands--a menu that changes every day, and significantly enough that new ones need to be printed.
'What are 'Potatoes Minneapolis'?' I ask, choosing something from the sides that is not described at all by any attendant text.
'Potatoes Minneapolis,' repeats my server. 'That's shredded potatoes, mixed with a little bacon fat and bacon, then fried'--he does a thing with his hands then, holding one out, palm-up, laying the other on top of it, and flipping them over--'and turned over so it's crispy on the outside and soft inside. Kind of like a giant order of hash browns.'
I purse my lips and nod as though considering--as though any consideration had been necessary after he'd said potatoes with bacon fat."
From this week's review of Blueacre SeafoodAs noted earlier this afternoon during a nice round of Guess Where I'm Eating, this week's review is of Blueacre Seafood--Kevin Davis's newest seafood joint in the former Oceanaire Seafood Room space. So is it weird that I spend so much time talking about the potatoes at a seafood restaurant?
Is it weird that what I have reprinted here is only maybe half of my digression on one small side dish on a menu that is otherwise stuffed to bursting with just about every delicious thing that swims?
Because those potatoes are, to me, the single greatest plate at Davis's new place. Which is not to say that everything else isn't good, because it is. In some cases, very good. But those potatoes Minneapolis? They are just awe-inspiring.
You can check out the whole review tomorrow (which, I promise, deals with more than just potatoes), both online and in old fashioned dead-tree format, but if you want to know what's good for you, I'd get in to Blueacre tonight if you can manage it, bring a big appetite, and order yourself some Potatoes Minneapolis. Maybe a dozen oysters. Maybe a nice piece of fish, too. But absolutely those potatoes.
Trust me on this. You won't regret it. And you can thank me later.