Anchovies & Olives Makes Bon Appetit's Ten Best List"/>
Hot on the heels of the opening of his newest restaurant, Staple & Fancy, and not long after the closure of what was probably his best known outpost, Union, comes word that one of chef Ethan Stowell's other properties is one of the best new restaurants in the country. At least according to Andrew Knowlton of Bon Appetit magazine.
That name sound familiar to you (I mean Knowlton's, not Stowell's)? Well if you pay close attention to the blog world, it should. For starters, he's the guy who writes the BA Foodist column for the Bon Appetit blog, and not too long ago, he made an appearance on this blog because he was the guy who collected quotes from restaurant critics and food writers all across the country (myself included) for a piece on the
pervasive evil unending helpfulness of user review sites like Yelp and Urbanspoon.
Want to know what the rest of them are? Well you'll just have to click through the jump to see...
Laurelhurst Market in Portland was the next-closest pick to us, with it being described as "Part steakhouse, part butcher shop, 100 percent ode to all things meat--this is "The Year in Food 2010" distilled into a single restaurant. A chalkboard--with a cow diagram and "cuts available tonight" menu--hangs near the open kitchen in the industrial space. All the good steakhouse cliches (fun, raucous) without all the bad ones (super-expensive, boys' club)." After that, there was Miller Union in Atlanta, Barbara Lynch's Menton in Boston, Marea in NYC (which has just been a total critical darling all through this past year) and Hatfield's in L.A. (which I've never even heard of). There's Ellerbe Fine Foods in Fort Worth, Texas, Bar La Grassa in Minneapolis, the Purple Pig in Chicago (roasted bone marrow and pork-neck-bone rillettes? Awesome) and Frances in San Francisco.
Anchovies & Olives showed up mid-list, between Marea and Hatfield's, and BA had this to say:
"In a city full of outstanding seafood restaurants, Anchovies & Olives is arguably the best. 'Less is more' seems to be the theme here--from the 40-seat space (with a beautiful open kitchen) to the pared-down menu that's divided into two sections: crudo and plates (entrees). What's more, nothing is priced over $16."
Simple and to the point, right? As the "Must Order," they name-checked the "mackerel with shallot and walnut agrodolce, seared prawns with salsa verde, and geoduck crudo," though I'll go one better and say that a wonderful (if light) meal can be made of nothing more than the eponymous plate of white anchovies and olives and maybe a bit of buratta.
So congrats once more to Stowell on standing up in such fine company in the midst of a busy and tumultuous year. And if you want to read the full write-ups on all ten restaurants picked this year, you can check out the Bon Appetit website here.