Okay, so this is the kind of thing that makes me happy to be a food writer--a sort of food-world elegant equation where tiny space + good neighborhood + blooded chefs + a screw-you-we're-doing-it-our-way kind of menu = one very happy restaurant critic.
The perfect name for a restaurant
I'm talking about Hunger, the new restaurant just opened by chef/owners Jamie Mullins and Brian Brooks in a small, wine-colored and half-hidden space at 4256 Fremont Avenue, which hooked me both because it has that kind of underground-y, shoestring vibe that I find totally charming in chef-driven operations, and seriously, what a perfect name for a restaurant, right?
|The confit salad|
Hunger's bent is obviously Spanish. It's a tapas joint the way Ocho is--taking Spain as a base camp of inspiration, but then flowering outward into Mediterranean, French, Middle Eastern and Indian flavors.
Right now, those who've wandered into Hunger during its zero-publicity soft-open have come away just over-the-moon in love (as described by the surfeit of adjectives on, say, Yelp). And while I would normally be tempted to immediately scream vote-rigging--especially since some of the 'reviews' (of a preview dinner) are from before the place actually opened, and the rest seemed to come in awfully soon after the doors were unlocked--in this case, I don't much care. I'm sold. And I can't wait to get out to Fremont myself for a taste.