delicatusign.jpg
"Delicatus" is Sandwichese for "our reubens can beat up your reubens."
You'd be forgiven if you interpreted my pronouncement that meatloaf sandwiches will play a

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Pioneer Square Cold (Cut) War Now Full-Blown Arms Race

delicatusign.jpg
"Delicatus" is Sandwichese for "our reubens can beat up your reubens."
You'd be forgiven if you interpreted my pronouncement that meatloaf sandwiches will play a central role in the revitalization of Pioneer Square as tongue in cheek. But you'd also be wrong. I'm dead-ass serious about the therapeutic powers of a thriving sandwich scene, and a lunchtime trip to Delicatus, a new deli-bar in the old Longhorn BBQ space at 1st & Yesler, proves that I'm no loner when it comes to this bread-centric mindset.

And with neighborhood fave Tat's Delicatessen moving into a much larger sit-down space--with beer and wine!--around the corner from its current Occidental Park hole-in-the-wall next week, what Pioneer Square is about to have on its hands is a full-blown gourmet sandwich arms race, which, as with the meatloaf, can only mean great things for the future of Pioneer Square.

Tat's street cred is well-established. Look no further than the perpetual lines out the door for evidence of that. But Delicatus, which opened in mid-March, beat them to the expanded-space punch, complete with loft seating and the shrewd calculation that the only thing better than pizza or fried chicken and beer is a sandwich and beer. It's a proud bronze medal of a meal.

The sandwich menu is almost too long (split between "progressives" and "traditionalists"), and the lamb shank (the ShankLamb, in Delicatus-speak) variety we tried was perfectly prepared, with chive aioli playing a key role. But while we appreciate that the name is stepped in deep Latin-German hybrid meaning, it's way too overwrought and unnecessarily hard to pronounce and explain.

"Meet me at Delicatus."

"Where?"

"Delicatus -- like deli plus cactus, minus the second c."

See what I mean?

But unwieldy nomenclature's but a minor speed bump on the road to greatness--for the truly great, that is. Tat's food is already great, whereas Delicatus' could be great. Conversely, Delicatus has a created a great space, whereas the jury's still out on Tat's new home. Gentlemen, start your toasters!

 
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