K! Pizzacone: Absolute Proof That It's All Been Done Before

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"Oh, this is the best pizza in a cup ever. This guy is unbelievable. He ran the old Cup 'o Pizza guy out of business. People come from all over to eat this. "
I sometimes have this fear that everything possible that can be done with food, has been done with food--that no chef, no matter how clever, is ever going to be able to figure out a way to get past the "crispy outside, soft inside" that is more or less the guild mantra of all cooks everywhere. One of the reasons I get such a charge out of guys like Wylie Dufresne, Grant Achatz, William Belickis or the guys from Spur is because they beat back this creeping fear--acting as living, cooking proof that innovation is alive and well in the culinary world.

But then there are days like today, when I go to Eater.com to check out the news of the day and see this: a re-posting of a review from the New Yorker of K! Pizzacone in Manhattan.

Don't know what K! Pizzacone is? That's okay. I'd never heard of it before today, either. Here's the New Yorker's take on it:

"The shop, located down the hill from the Empire State Building, covers uncharted ground between a tri-corner slice and a Hot Pocket--rolled, but not sealed, over. (Bagel Bites are a separate matter.)

Here's how it works: Every morning, a Queens bakery molds pizza dough into the shape of an ice-cream cone before baking it in a specially designed oven and delivering it to midtown. Once you order, your preferred sauce (red or pesto) is squirted into the cone and smeared around its interior. Cheese and other ingredients, chosen from a standard list, are tossed in a bowl, like at a salad place, and stuffed inside. Then it's two minutes in the oven, another one in your hand--a near-mandatory cooling period--and, finally, dozens of nibbles, more cautious but otherwise similar to a cartoon rabbit gnawing a carrot."

Unfortunately, I think I've seen something similar to this before: At the carnival where Navin Johnson worked in Steve Martin's The Jerk. He'd gotten all his trailer furnishings from the old Cup o' Pizza guy, after that Cup o' Pizza guy was run out of business by the new Cup o' Pizza guy. This kind of thing was a joke in 1979. Today, though, it's just another sad reality and proof (like Hawaii Five-0 making a return to television or Hollywood making the board game Battleship into a major motion picture) that memories are short, creativity in short supply, and no idea is so dumb or worthy of scorn that someone, somewhere won't try to make a buck off it.

If you're interested, you can read the complete New Yorker review here.

Oh, and for a competing point of view? Of course the New York Daily News has been there, too.

 
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