Brickyard-Pulled.jpg
Pulled-pork sandwich
Not only is the cops-love-doughnuts cliché tired, it doesn't hold true in Seattle, where doughnut shops are rare and Starbucks seems to be

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First Taste: Brisket, Biscuit, and Uniforms at Brickyard BBQ

Brickyard-Pulled.jpg
Pulled-pork sandwich
Not only is the cops-love-doughnuts cliché tired, it doesn't hold true in Seattle, where doughnut shops are rare and Starbucks seems to be the most heavily patrolled chain in town. No, our latte-loving SPD officers don't love doughnuts.

They love barbecue.

When I walked to meet a friend for lunch at the new Brickyard BBQ this past week, which opened on California just around the corner from Admiral, three of the tables in the courtyard restaurant were in uniform -- and from different department branches, too. There were so many cords curling around so many ears that I could have sworn it was Matrix theme day at ComiCon.

What is it about Seattle barbecue and the burly? Run by sturdy-framed white guys, the two-week-old restaurant attracts like to like. Average weight: 200. Average haircut: shaved. Average order: barbecued brisket with hot sauce.

Brisket-peas.jpg
Brisket with pea salad.
The lunch combos, at $7.50, are a good deal. You get a choice of chicken, pork, or brisket, served either on its own or on a coleslaw-bedecked bun, with one free side. And since chef Ryan Ackerson has done time at Tavolata and How to Cook a Wolf, the sides are worth ordering: fresh peas and curls of bacon coated in a sweetly tangy buttermilk dressing, beans stewed rich and sweet, warm, high biscuits. While the meat isn't there yet -- both the brisket and the pulled pork needed another 2-4 hours in the smoker to melt away the excess fat and collagen -- it's early days. With Indian summer just around the way (hah!), you have another six weeks to eat in the bricked-over courtyard, surrounded by men who could serve, protect, and/or crush you.

Brickyard BBQ, 2310 California Ave. S.W., 933-3109.

 
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