While working on my next review I've been browsing through AJ Liebling's Between Meals: An Appetite for Paris , a 1962 memoir of the New

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The Vodka Backlash Started Long Ago

While working on my next review I've been browsing through AJ Liebling's Between Meals: An Appetite for Paris, a 1962 memoir of the New Yorker writer's coming of age in Paris in the 1920s. Though I didn't find what I was looking for, I did stumble upon this passage, which I think Maggie might approve of:

The standard of perfection for vodka (no color, no taste, no smell) was expounded to me long ago by the then Estonian consul-general in New York, and it accounts perfectly for the drink's rising popularity with those who like their alcohol in conjunction with the reassuring tastes of infancy -- tomato juice, orange juice, chicken broth. It is the ideal intoxicant for the drinker who wants no reminder of how hurt Mother would be if she knew what he was doing.

 
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