MollyMoonsSign.jpg

No one seems to have told Mother Nature, but it's the beginning of ice cream season.

I just had a chance to taste the ice

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A taste of Molly Moon's

MollyMoonsSign.jpg

No one seems to have told Mother Nature, but it's the beginning of ice cream season.

I just had a chance to taste the ice creams at Molly Moon's, the new artisanal, locavore ice cream shop opening Saturday on Wallingford's main drag.

It was indeed the manna we hoped for, but I had two major complaints. One was that it was just a tasting, so I didn't feel right shoveling in cone after cone of the flavors I liked most: salted caramel, honey-lavender, and "scout" mint. (The latter cooled the place in my heart that's been burning since Girl Scout cookie season ended.) The second was that all the seats (giant, non-tippy wooden blocks) at the slate-covered tables were taken by children under six, so I couldn't grab some chalk and start drawing.

I'd expected the ice cream to be great, but the sauces took me off guard. Owner Molly Neitzel has teamed up with Veil pastry chef Dana Cree, so instead of run-of-the-mill scoop wetters, you get toppings worth eating alone, like bu-bu-buttery vanilla bean butterscotch and a sweet (seasonal!) orange-rhubarb compote that screams to slide down a mountain of the strawberry-balsamic ice cream. (Put that stuff in a jar!)

Molly Moon's is hosting a Grand Opening on Saturday at 3 p.m., with Eric Johnson (The Shins, Fruit Bats) deejaying.

Molly Moon's Ice Cream, 1622 ½ N, 45th St., 618-4934, WALLINGFORD.

Sweet On You, an ice cream shop in Greenwood whose owner calls it a "modern soda fountain," also opens Friday. There will be gelato for the first week or so, followed by the full menu, including traditional American ice cream, Pinkberry-style frozen yogurt, juices, and supplements.

Sweet On You, 8416 Greenwood Ave., GREENWOOD. Open 10 a.m. - 10 p.m. daily (for now).

 
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