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Apothecary: Newport Bay , 425-827-2722, 10426 Northrup Wy., KIRKLAND

Time of Entry: Noonish Sunday, after Mass at Holy Family Kirkland, which is KING-5 weatherman Jeff

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Soak It Up: Newport Bay

champagne.jpg

Apothecary: Newport Bay, 425-827-2722, 10426 Northrup Wy., KIRKLAND

Time of Entry: Noonish Sunday, after Mass at Holy Family Kirkland, which is KING-5 weatherman Jeff Renner's parish. The priest there delivered a sermon about football and the devil. He also asked the congregation to buck up for a multi-million dollar capital campaign.

Level of Hangover (1-10 scale, with 10 being a paralyzing head-thumper): 2. I didn't drink Saturday night on account of the fact that I feel like I owe it to my grandparents not to be hungover in their presence, but there was still some residual grogginess from a Friday night spent watching my uncle's band at the Little Red Hen.

How hungover does waitstaff look? Not at all. What we've got here are God-fearing young suburbanites serving God-fearing old suburbanites.

Prescriptions: Strawberry Belgian Waffle, eggs, bacon, smoked salmon benedict, southwest chicken omelette, breakfast buffet appeteasers and dessert (free with any of the aforementioned entrees).

Hair of the Dog: All-you-can-drink champagne at $3 per bottomless glass.

Success of the Soak: My grandparents are old. Really old. At Newport Bay, they fit right in. Situated off 520 near Lake Washington's northeastern shore, Newport Bay, with its flat, sprawling floor plan, inoffensive decor, and white wicker chairs, looks as though it's been airlifted from Boca Raton. While the service is friendly and attentive, the pace of the establishment fits the crowd: slow. That's not a slight; Newport Bay is set up so you won't want to leave.

If you so desired, you could ride that bottomless champagne deal all the way to Hammered Heights, just as you could ride the complimentary before-and-after fruit 'n pastry buffet all the way to Couch Potatosville. Such one-and-done gluttony is sort of the point at Newport Bay, just as it should be the point of any proper brunch, a special meal that, as strictly defined, is in short supply 'round these parts. So, too, are nonagenarians -- but not at Newport Bay.

 
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