How to Cook a Wolf, Ethan Stowell's third Seattle restaurant, opens tonight in a small space atop Queen Anne. With just twenty seats, and room for about ten at the bar, Wolf, as Stowell is calling it, will focus on Italian-inspired small plates and housemade pastas. His lamb shank farotto jumped out at me, not because the celery root and braising jus it's served with has me drooling on the keyboard, but because I do love a good new vocab word. Farroto (am I the only one who hadn't heard this?) is just a handy name for farro risotto, of course.
How to Cook a Wolf (full website forthcoming)
2208 Queen Anne Ave. N. (at Boston), 838.8090, QUEEN ANNE.
Open Thurs. - Mon., 5 p.m. - 12 a.m. Closed Tues. and Wed.