In the early part of this decade, Naomi Andrade Smith sold tamales and other Mexican takeaway dishes out of window on the side of Dulces Latin Bistro on E. 34th Ave. in Madrona. Four years ago, Smith made plans to expand. She found a space just down the street and secured a loan to fit it up, but on the day she signed the loan papers she also went into the hospital with abdominal pains. Cancer.
Plans canceled. At least for the moment.
Last week, Smith finally got the space she wanted—only this one is in Columbia City, on the ground floor of a new condo building. Villa Victoria is now open for takeout (there are no seats) Tuesday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Smith, whose mother comes from Michoacan and whose father grew up in Eastern Mexico, is selling tamales again, plus dishes like marinated roast chicken and chilaquiles, a chicken-tortilla casserole.
Out of her commercial kitchen on Rainier, she also roasts coffee—right now a Brazilian Sul de Minas and an Ethiopian Yirgacheffe—which, she says, officially makes her Columbia City's first coffee roastery.