A group of us waltzed into bustling Tango last night. Half of our foursome was vegetarian; we all took a financial risk on the shareable vegetarian paella ($34—ouch). But, surprise, surprise, it was a hit with the entire group. Big triangular chunks of grilled tofu sat atop rice and a pile of slowly cooked vegetables seasoned with saffron: asparagus, wild mushrooms, kale, peppers, and tomatoes. It was served in a big paella pan, so it looked authentic, and afterwards we didn't lament the lack of mussels. Or squid. Or scallops. Or chicken. Or chorizo. Or linguiça. Okay, you get the point.