Food Porn: Tanglewood Supreme

Sunset-pink salmon tartare gleam so attractively that even the drowsiest appetites are jolted awake by a glance around the compact room.

There's nothing wrong with a restaurant that doesn't mug for the cameras (or make a noisy fuss about the eaters armed with them.) Although the term “neighborhood restaurant” is a mite too rumpled and beery for what's happening at Tanglewood, the tailored 35-seat bistro is admirably willing to recede into the background when Magnolians want to celebrate a birthday or host visiting in-laws. In many ways, Tanglewood Supreme feels like a perfectly ordinary expression of upper-middle classhood, in the fashion of golden retrievers and Toyota Priuses. What distinguishes it from other restaurants with open kitchens and $22 entrees – and what matters most to eaters on the opposite end of the Magnolia Bridge – is the consistently high caliber of its food.