"Ethan Stowell's newest restaurant, Rione XIII, is named for a trendy section of Rome, but it might as well have been named for the Seattle

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Food Porn: Rione XIII

"Ethan Stowell's newest restaurant, Rione XIII, is named for a trendy section of Rome, but it might as well have been named for the Seattle street on which it sits. Stowell's portfolio is rapidly becoming a blur: Tavolàta is much like Anchovies & Olives, which isn't that different from How to Cook a Wolf, which has plenty in common with Staple & Fancy. That's not a swipe at Stowell, whose restaurants are reliable sources of thoughtful, seasonal, and adept cooking. But unlike Tom Douglas, Seattle's other resident restaurant baron, Stowell—who's deeply attached to a highly specific vision of "new Italian," as his 2010 cookbook termed it—has extended only a clammy handshake toward themed cuisine. While Douglas' kitchens turn out Greek kebabs and German pretzels, Stowell's kitchens serve beet salad and spaghetti with anchovies."

Read the rest of Hanna Raskin's review here.

Photos by Kevin P. Casey.

Published on October 24, 2012

 
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