Food Porn: Agrodolce

"I loved Agrodolce when I ate there alone; liked it slightly less when I returned with a companion; and found myself repeatedly apologizing when I dragged three friends there. I suspect that's because the food isn't engineered to wow on first bite, so the pass-and-play style of eating falls flat. Most of the dishes are fairly elemental, which is rough on diners looking for culinary conversation-starters, but ideal if you're wanting to string together a coherent four-course order with drinks to match."

From the vantage point of a table set with drinks and a few slices of rustic housemade focaccia, yeasty and more wholesome-tasting than the typical dense focaccia, it seems impossible for the evening to go awry.

A cauliflower soup, scribbled with a brawny black olive vinaigrette, was thicker than its vegan profile would suggest. But like a gangster pummeling a rival who refuses to give up information, the kitchen had smacked the soup with so much salt in hopes of extracting flavor that it ultimately incapacitated the vulnerable vegetable.

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Read more of Hanna Raskin's review here.

Photos by Joshua Huston

Published on March 13, 2013