Joshua Huston

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Blogs
May 15, 2012
Checking Back: New Music From The Writers Block And Afrocop Camps
In which we check back with a couple of stars from Weeklys past: Tacoma's hit-making ghosts, The Writers Block; and Noel Brass, Jr. of Afrocop. Since gracing our cover (with Nicki), Tacoma's The Writers Block (Clemm Rishad and William Jordan) have been hard at work on their solo careers, and this we ... More >>
Blogs
April 19, 2012
Reviewing the Review: Shedding Light on The Fat Hen
Yelp may be unsettling professional food critics and making life difficult for restaurateurs, but it's a terrifically handy tool for tracking down new restaurants. I don't much care whether anonymous eaters think highly of the soondubu at a new tofu joint in Federal Way, but I'm deeply grateful to t ... More >>
Blogs
April 12, 2012
Reviewing the Review: Exploring the Dark Side at Ma'Ono
At Ma'Ono Fried Chicken & Whisky, the subject of this week's review, the fried chicken is fantastic. But -- and this is no fault of chef Fuller and his capable crew -- the dark meat's better than the white meat. White-meat partisans undoubtedly feel the opposite way. Looking at a box of breasts tha ... More >>
Blogs
March 15, 2012
Reviewing the Review: What You See is Not What I Get
My take down of Manhattan Drug's baked potato this week puzzled a reader who couldn't square my assessment with the photo illustrating my review. "In the restaurant's sort-of defense, that looks like a twice-baked potato, which...can be quite tasty," Defender of Potatoes wrote in the comments. It d ... More >>
Blogs
March 8, 2012
Reviewing the Review: Partnering Up
This week's review is a two-for-one deal, with The Sexton and The Innkeeper bundled into one column. Although I ended up having very different feelings about the two restaurants, I couldn't help but conjoin them when I was writing my review schedule. On paper, the restaurants are indistinguishable: ... More >>
Blogs
February 16, 2012
Reviewing the Review: Charting a New Spirits Menu
I had a mezcal at Mezcaleria Oaxaca, the subject of this week's review, that I liked very much. But I'm pretty sure I'll never have it again. As I write in my review, the bustling Queen Anne bar's name and liquor collection projects a mezcal seriousness that's unmatched elsewhere in Seattle. Every ... More >>
Blogs
February 8, 2012
Leading Seattle Restaurateurs Are Fans of Great Design and Lots of Dining Room Noise
The spare, referential dining room that's lately taken hold in Seattle is costly and loud, but leading Seattle restaurateurs say they wouldn't have it any other way. In a panel discussion last night hosted by the Seattle Architecture Foundation, Ethan Stowell (Ethan Stowell Restaurants); Chad Dale ... More >>
Blogs
February 2, 2012
Reviewing the Review: Falling for Vermouth
When I worked as a waitress, no matter what the kitchen served for staff meal, we'd usually end up rummaging around the pantry for condiments or crackers. If dinner happened to be thawed frozen waffles - a reminder of why our restaurant got out of the brunch business months before - we'd scou ... More >>
Blogs
January 26, 2012
Reviewing the Review: Choosing the Right Words, by Gum
I usually use this column to dissect a dish which didn't make my current review, or to reveal an incident that helped solidify my impressions of the featured restaurant. But nothing odd or disagreeable occurred at the thoroughly wonderful Terra Plata: The only near-misstep, which involved a bungled ... More >>
Blogs
January 12, 2012
Reviewing the Review: Setting the Stopwatch on Dinner
Of all the twists threaded into this week's premiere of Downton Abbey's second season, none shocked me more thoroughly than the pre-show announcement that the episode was two hours long. I'd already plotted my sleep schedule around an hour-long run time, and - like Mr. Carson - I don't like surprise ... More >>
Blogs
January 5, 2012
Reviewing the Review: Thinking, Fast and Slow, About Momiji
I recently found myself mentally reviewing this week's review while reading Nobel Prize winner Daniel Kahneman's Thinking, Fast and Slow, a riveting study of psychology, economics and the irrational behavior that shapes and confounds both disciplines. The book is far more profound than a few bullet ... More >>
Blogs
December 28, 2011
The Best Food Photos of 2011
I'm very, very lucky to have a photographer who trails my review visits, producing what amounts to a scrapbook of my restaurant meals. It's far more convenient than carrying a camera. If you visited many new restaurants this year, Joshua Huston's photographs may provoke nostalgia from you, too. But ... More >>
Blogs
December 22, 2011
Reviewing the Review: Dining Alone. Very Alone.
I thought the most disheartening thing I could encounter on a review visit was an overcrowded dining room. As much as I like a restaurant pulsating with people, my work is pretty much doomed to be either ignored or irrelevant if I write about a place where it takes an hour to score a table. ... More >>
Blogs
December 1, 2011
Reviewing the Review: Inventing a Signature Dish
Travel & Leisure recently named New Orleans the nation's very best food city. In a similar survey, Food & Wine liked New Orleans too, but saved its highest honors for Paris. When Esquire chimed in last year, it put New York City atop its list. So what defines a great food city? A patchwork o ... More >>
Blogs
November 17, 2011
Reviewing the Review: Guest Identification
To protect my anonymity, I'm happy to do odd things to my hair and apply lipstick shades that no halfway-capable cosmetics counter staffer would ever endorse for me. But I can't ask the same of my review dinner guests. On my first visit to The Coterie Room, the new Brian McCracken and Dana T ... More >>
Blogs
October 27, 2011
Reviewing the Review: Making the Right Bartender's Choice
As Adam Gopnik points out in his absorbing new book The Table Comes First: Family, France and the Meaning of Food, cooking has changed radically over the last 200 years, but service standards have remained remarkably constant. While their uniforms have changed, servers today still come and go ... More >>
Blogs
October 13, 2011
Reviewing the Review: Choosing a Soundtrack
When I dined at Taverna MaZi, the new genre-tweaking Greek restaurant that's the subject of this week's review, the piped-in music was nearly always bouzouki-based. The folk music underscores the restaurant's good cheer, and seems to keep even customers who've waited far too long for their mo ... More >>
Blogs
September 12, 2011
McClatchy Newspapers Discover the Border Patrol's Swollen Staffing But Not the Questionable Tactics that Have Resulted
Joshua HustonThe McClatchy newspaper chain is the latest to catch onto the fact that there's something startling going on along the northern border. A piece picked up by the Seattle Times this morning draws attention to the huge increase of Border Patrol agents there and accusations by whistl ... More >>
Blogs
August 17, 2011
Seattle's 5 Worst Seafood Restaurants
In the city of seafood, where you can't go more than a single city block without the scent of either fresh Puget Sound water or salmon grilling up at a local eatery, there are still places that are just missing the mark. From food poisoning to undercooked, overcooked or mislabeled fish, bad ... More >>
Blogs
July 28, 2011
Reviewing the Review: What the Devil's With the Eggs?
I've already written about biscuits and streaky meat this week, so it's probably the right time to take up deviled eggs. Madison Park Conservatory, the subject of this week's review, serves Dungeness crab deviled eggs that many of the restaurant's devoted fans consider a must-order. I hate t ... More >>
Blogs
July 21, 2011
Reviewing the Review: Where's the Porn?
Readers of this week's review may wonder what the food at Little Water Cantina looks like. My column is illustrated with a picture of Ryan Minch mixing a drink, and there isn't an accompanying online food-porn slideshow featuring pictures of tortas and tacos. Since I always look forward to s ... More >>
Blogs
June 23, 2011
Reviewing the Review: Just Like Grandma Used to Make
Reviews aren't the right platform for prattling on about myself, but since blogs are the official medium of narcissism, I figure this is the proper spot for a story about Golden Beetle and my personal culinary history. Golden Beetle, which I reviewed this week, serves dishes from across the ... More >>
Blogs
March 25, 2011
Friday Food Porn: Show Us Your Tots!
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston What's that you say? It would take some kind of genius photographer to take pretty pictures of fast food tacos? Well then I guess it's a good thing we've got one, huh? Because in support of this week's review of that bastion of Pacific Northwestern drive-thru Me ... More >>
Blogs
March 18, 2011
Friday Food Porn: The Secrets of Yea's Wok
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston "Close your eyes and think about the first time you ate Chinese food. Try to envision the place, the menu, the smell, and the alien feel of the words in your mouth as you first said lo mein and moo shu and wonton." From this week's review of Yea's Wok in Newcast ... More >>
Blogs
March 11, 2011
Friday Food Porn: Eatin' Pie
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston A couple days ago, as a mid-week treat, we offered up Wiener Porn to you, the adoring masses. And what better way to follow that than with Pie Porn on a blustery Friday? These snaps were all taken in support of this week's double-barreled review of Pie in Fremon ... More >>
Blogs
March 4, 2011
Friday Food Porn: Eating Pac-Man at Wild Ginger
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston Wild Ginger has spent years doing the same thing, bucking every trend and ignoring every crazy fluctuation in the fickle tastes of the dining public. It started out doing Asian fusion back in the first bloom of its cool and simply never stopped. Today, the rest ... More >>
Blogs
February 25, 2011
Friday Food Porn: Going Down To Dumpling Town at Din Tai Fung
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston There's been lots of battling back and forth this week over my review of the new Din Tai Fung in Bellevue, with fans stepping up in support of the place and others, like me, just trying to cool the fervor a little. Does Din Tai Fung sling some fine dumplings? Yes ... More >>
Blogs
February 18, 2011
Friday Food Porn: Through the Looking Glass With The Walrus and the Carpenter
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston This week's review of The Walrus and the Carpenter was contentious, to say the least. There are people who love this place--who seem to have sworn some kind of personal blood oath of allegiance to the few bar seats and handful of tables that make up its dining ro ... More >>
Blogs
February 11, 2011
Friday Food Porn: Hot Beef Injection
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston Burgers in the middle of the night versus burgers only at lunchtime. Classic, American burgers of beef and cheese and bread versus bizarre burger conglomerations of chorizo and chiles and barbecued pork. Mediocre burgers made to cash in on the current burger zeit ... More >>
Blogs
February 4, 2011
Friday Food Porn: In the Future, We Will All Eat Lasers
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston And if not lasers, then what we eat will be beyond cuisine, beyond borders, beyond the traditional definitions of French food or Japanese food or Spanish food or even fusions of the three. That's what this week's review of Japonessa is all about: the future. Bec ... More >>
Blogs
January 28, 2011
Friday Food Porn: Some Pig, on the Table At Lecosho
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston "We come out of the alley and onto the Harbor Steps and Lecosho is right there, with the best promise ever written right onto the little sandwich board outside the front door: Stuff We Like. It's the motto of the place, and really the only description of the cuis ... More >>
Blogs
January 21, 2011
Friday Food Porn: Meat and Potatoes at Jak's
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston "Jak's is a steakhouse that is like the model of steakhouses: A museum-grade replica of the elder, established meat-and-martini operations on which it was based, grown into its own kind of originality. Jak's is a simple place, a tenaciously neighborhood-y place ( ... More >>
Blogs
January 3, 2011
Seattle Weekly's "Gay Kiss" Cover Named in Design Publication's Top 10 Covers of 2010: Vote Now To Make it No. 1
It's no secret that we've been tooting away on our own horn ever since we published our Dec. 22 issue that featured two male "sailors" gaying up Alfred Eisenstaedt's iconic V-J Day photo, in honor of the repeal of Don't Ask, Don't Tell. But it turns out that we're far from the only ones who t ... More >>
Blogs
December 23, 2010
Friday Food Porn: Beautiful Little Fishies
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston "I like places that dedicate themselves to the atom-by-atom reconstruction of long-forgotten pages from the Book of Lost Cuisines, don't get me wrong. I love a joint that completely geeks out on being able to score native ingredients or manage tricky, traditional ... More >>
Blogs
December 17, 2010
Friday Food Porn: Cooking The Books
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston "The first time I saw the menu at Book Bindery, I was unimpressed. It was dishwater dull, common and so full of standard customer-friendly dishes done elsewhere that it seemed, even when brand new, already faded on the page--a copy of a copy of a copy. I could n ... More >>
Blogs
December 15, 2010
Friday Food Porn: The Best of 2010, Part 2
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston On Friday of last week, we had part 1 of the Friday Food Porn Best of 2010 collection of truly awesome food photography--10 snaps which covered the best of the first six months (or so) of this soon-to-be-concluded year. And today, we're continuing on with a Wedn ... More >>
Blogs
November 29, 2010
Monday Food Porn: Snacks at Seatown
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston "Next door, at the take-out counter, there is even less of a divide. It feels like you're walking straight into the kitchen, with big ovens and prep tables and even the dish station all operating while customers walk in for sandwiches and sides and meat by the po ... More >>
Blogs
November 22, 2010
Favorite Restaurants For Hiding Out During the Storm
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston So I guess the snow has come to Seattle, right? The trees are white and the roads are slick and the mountains are all but invisible in the cold distance. Waking to the sudden whiteness this morning, all I could think was how little I wanted to brave the streets ... More >>
Blogs
November 19, 2010
Friday Food Porn: Drinking It Down at Pho Cyclo
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston "Accept the fact that a meal will take as long as it will take and be as scattered as it will be. Relax into the unique speed and particular idiosyncrasies of Cyclo, and look around at the pin-lighted murals of a Vietnamese cityscape (not unlike those in the main ... More >>
Blogs
November 12, 2010
Friday Food Porn: Staple & Fancy & Bunnies & Gnocchi
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston "Staple & Fancy exists way down in the guts of Ballard--by the water, crowded in among the sailmakers, mini-storage units, and coffee shops that pop up like benchmarks of rapid gentrification. The building in which Staple & Fancy is housed has been reclaimed in t ... More >>
Blogs
November 8, 2010
Guess Where I'm Eating: Whiter Shade of Pale
photo courtesy Joshua Huston I spent almost a week thinking about the dish pictured above. Dreaming about it. Wondering how one small plate could contain so much goodness. I only ate it once (mostly out of fear that trying it a second time could only bring disappointment) and, at the time, ... More >>
Blogs
November 5, 2010
Friday Food Porn: Teaching the Classics
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston "Walking into a fine-dining restaurant, you feel a slowing, a calm, as you are taken into the smooth workings of a house dedicated to your pleasure. When places like that vanish, they can't ever come back. Quiet competence and respect for tradition are things tha ... More >>
Blogs
November 5, 2010
Greatest Hits and What You Missed: Dinosaurs, Guy Fieri and, Wait A Minute... Is That Tom Skerritt?
photo courtesy Joshua Huston "Negative Ghostrider, the pattern is full." Yes. As a matter of fact that is Tom Skerritt, who just happened to be hanging out at Il Terrazzo Carmine (reviewed this week) while Food Porn photographer Joshua Huston was there to grab a few snaps. Commander Mike Me ... More >>
Blogs
October 29, 2010
Friday Food Porn: Amalgamation Nation
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston "Fusion cuisine is big. Fusion cuisine is important. Fusion cuisine is smart. Fusion cuisine is gimpy and obtuse and lazy and ridiculous--gastronomy 101 for the over-educated, travel-sick and hopelessly romantic white jacket--and a sin like blasphemy against the ... More >>
Blogs
October 15, 2010
Friday Food Porn: Chasing the Peacock at Mayuri
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston "I pushed my way back through the knots of people, turning my shoulders into narrow gaps, and twisted out the door into the cold and dark of the night. The sudden quiet and the chill in the air was sudden, like a slap. I walked into the parking lot, lit a cigaret ... More >>
Blogs
October 8, 2010
Friday Food Porn: In The Night Kitchen
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston "It is strange to see a restaurant open at three in the morning. I don't care where you've lived, what you've seen, or the level of your insomnia, there is just something in the human psyche--some conditioned reflex, pure as circadian rhythms--which revolts sligh ... More >>
Blogs
October 1, 2010
Friday Food Porn: A Look Inside Smith
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston "Open the menu and the entire thrust of the place is laid plain: bowls of marinated olives, cheese plates with honeycomb, cured meat with pickled fennel, a Painted Hills burger, pork belly, sweetbreads, and hanger steak. The proteins are confined to a single expr ... More >>
Blogs
September 24, 2010
Friday Food Porn: Show Us Your Tat's!
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston "Look, I don't like pastrami all that much. And I really don't like coleslaw. But the girl behind the counter at Tat's talked me into this sandwich when, for a moment, it looked like I wasn't going to be able to make up my mind, and to her I will be forever grate ... More >>
Blogs
September 10, 2010
Friday Food Porn: Crying Tigers and Mermaid Tails
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston There are a lot of things that can get me through the doors of a restaurant for the first time. Maybe the place has really legendary sandwiches. That'll do it. Maybe there's some kind of mad genius working in the kitchen--some half-outlaw chef who gets his ingred ... More >>
Blogs
September 3, 2010
Friday Food Porn: Angry Crab and Pretty Little Fishies
Photo courtesy Joshua Huston Some of you out there seem to think it a little bit strange that, in a review of one of the best seafood restaurants in this fish-obsessed city, I spent a good chunk of space talking about...potatoes. But see, here's the thing. Those potatoes (the Potatoes Minne ... More >>
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