Reviews

  • Hommage and Vespolina Rise From the Ashes of Book Bindery and Aragona

    Hommage has big clogs to fill in the Seattle culinary world. Taking over the space of the venerable Book Bindery, which closed last summer after … More »

  • Restaurant Review: Stumbling Goat Bistro

    Seattle’s allegiance to dressed-down dining extends beyond the chefs in weathered black T-shirts, the servers in jeans and untucked blouses, and the patrons in puffy … More »

  • Seattle’s International Breakfasts

    Picky eaters have it easy. They don’t have to worry about spoiling their evening torta appetite with a lunchtime order of mantoo, or waste time … More »

  • The Sweet Old Things

    Nutritionists are still bickering over whether the results of a study published last month in the New England Journal of Medicine really mean we ought … More »

  • Seattle’s Ramen Spectrum

    Like the buffoon at the center of Moliere’s Le Bourgeois gentilhomme, who learns he’s been speaking in prose for 40 years without intending to do … More »

  • South Lake Sputter

    The lifeblood of Mehak Indian Cuisine is delivery, as the Northgate restaurant's interior makes abundantly clear. The sheer white curtains and tablecloths look as though … More »

  • Tanglewood Supreme: Tangled Out of View

    Ever since The New York Times exposed the foibles of self-appointed food paparazzi on the front page of its dining section, culinary folk have been … More »

  • Flipping the Script

    When I worked as a server and had ample opportunity to observe how quickly patrons' ravenousness tapers once seated, it occurred to me that restaurants … More »

  • Mamnoon's Heavenly Hospitality

    Like small brads or buttons, small plates have a way of getting lost. What's often overlooked in the now-ubiquitous tirades against tapas-style cuisine is how … More »

  • The Whale Really Wins

    Dishes appear in haphazard fashion at Fremont's The Whale Wins, where a meal's rhythms are determined by the kitchen's pace rather than a preset program. … More »

  • At SanMaRu Grill, the Spice Is White

    Nakji bokkeum, the classic Korean octopus dish that's a stated specialty of Shoreline's SanMaRu Grill, is typically roughed up with a jab/cross/hook of chili-based heat. … More »

  • Joule Pulls Up Steaks

    Appropriately enough for a restaurant named after a physics principle governing how work gets done, Joule doesn't tarry. Even on very busy nights, the reborn … More »

  • Coastal Kitchen Shores Itself Up

    If the food writers on your latest gift list were honest about their holiday wishes, they'd have asked you for a bunch of new adjectives, … More »

  • The Wandering Goose's Flour Power

    While managing a campaign for a North Carolina state senator whose district included all but one of the six highest peaks east of the Mississippi, … More »

  • Rumba's Muggy Waters

    At most restaurants, a very long menu is worrisome. One featuring dishes from at least three different continents, however, is nothing short of alarming. Maybe … More »

  • Barney Won't Talk Pastrami

    Anyone with decent online research skills and a finely tuned GPS unit can track down the area's most spectacular pastrami sandwich. Locating its creator is … More »

  • Grub's Slice of Dixie

    There's a bus stop on Grub's corner of upper Queen Anne, so Route 4 drivers occasionally have a chance to idle in front of the … More »

  • Gobble's Turkey Daze

    Back in grade school, when we crayoned hand-traced turkeys and made buckle hats from construction paper and glue, we sincerely believed the Pilgrims and Pokanokets … More »

  • Make It a Double at Essex & Vessel

    As recently as five years ago, drinkers could judge a cocktail den's gravity by the length of its bartender's handlebar mustache. With housemade tinctures, fresh … More »

  • At El Tio, There Will Be Bugs

    El Tio's menu is monumental, about the size of a small pillowcase. Like an IHOP menu redone with chorizo and string cheese, its laminated pages … More »

  • Same New Italy for Ethan Stowell

    There are 64 Taco Times in and around Seattle. I know this because they're listed in the Yellow Pages, under the name "Taco Time." When … More »