The man behind the "mort"

Location: Morton's the Steakhouse, 1511 Sixth Ave.

Bartender: Alberto Espino

What’s your favorite drink? A Mart—er, "Mortini"

Why this drink? Espino's a company man, having worked at this Morton's since 1999 and another Morton's in Chicago before that. So it's fitting that his drink of choice invokes the name of Arnold Morton, Chi-town steak baron (and co-founder of the first Playboy Club, for the geriatric hornsters out there). Espino shakes Stoli Elite vodka and funnels it into a glass with three crunchy, blue cheese-stuffed green olives. A floating layer of what looks like cheese oil on the vodka turns out, thankfully, to be ice crystals. "Shake it real hard, make it real cold, it kills the blue-cheese taste," he says. The liquid is smooth, sweet, and as potent as a head-on collision.

The privilege of quaffing this Mor-drink (Espino also makes a "Mor-jito") will cost you $15.75, which the bartender says is a bargain for Stoli Elite. Another bargain comes in the form of complimentary filet mignon sandwiches, served on a silver platter from 5 to 7 p.m., Monday through Friday. The steak is pink, lathered with mayo and mustard, and squished between tablet-shaped buns: the best pill your doctor will never prescribe you. Since the powerbrokers on the bar stool next to me seemed preoccupied with the downfall of the country—"Something's coming, you can bet on it," is one line that sticks in memory—making a dinner of them seemed the smart thing to do.

Topics: First Call

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Cooking Class This Weeekend: Christmas Morning Brunch

Image credit: www.nal.usda.gov/.../meyer/meyer_lemon.html

This class offers a menu for your own holiday brunch, and the skills to impress your guests. A few highlights: Meyer lemon and dried blueberry scones, chard and salami frittata, lemon raspberry French toast strata, asparagus mimosas, and an arugula, watercress, and goat cheese salad with raspberry vinaigrette.

Sur La Table (Kirkland)
90 Central Way, Kirkland (425) 827-5541
$65. Sunday, December 2, 2:00 p.m.

Image details: Meyer Lemon. Watercolor by Royal G. Steadman, 1926.USDA Pomological Watercolor Collection,National Agricultural Library.

Topics: Culinary Classes

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Paula Deen reading: Don't Miss It!

Tonight, the Lake Forest branch of Third Place Books is hosting "A Conversation With Paula Deen" at 6:30 p.m. Natasha Curry, from KOMO's Northwest Afternoon show, will be talking about the Food Network star and publishing titan about her new book, Christmas With Paula Deen, as well as how to do up a real Southern Christmas (let's hope it includes the Krispy Kreme bread pudding)!

I really-to-the-18th-power wanted to go to see what the juxtaposition of Paula Deen and Seattle looked like, but there's something else I can't get out of. If you go, please share details.

One caveat. Although Paula's website tells fans, "Since not everyone can join me in my kitchen, I�m bringing my kitchen to you! I really love meeting all of you while I�m out traveling around," it also warns: "No autographing at this event — books are pre-signed."

For more information, call Third Place Books at 206-366-3333.

Topics: Events

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Wolf opens tonight

How to Cook a Wolf, Ethan Stowell's third Seattle restaurant, opens tonight in a small space atop Queen Anne. With just twenty seats, and room for about ten at the bar, Wolf, as Stowell is calling it, will focus on Italian-inspired small plates and housemade pastas. His lamb shank farotto jumped out at me, not because the celery root and braising jus it's served with has me drooling on the keyboard, but because I do love a good new vocab word. Farroto (am I the only one who hadn't heard this?) is just a handy name for farro risotto, of course.

How to Cook a Wolf (full website forthcoming)
2208 Queen Anne Ave. N. (at Boston), 838.8090, QUEEN ANNE.
Open Thurs. - Mon., 5 p.m. - 12 a.m. Closed Tues. and Wed.

Topics: Continuing Education Fridays and News

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I Drank Here: Top of the Hilton

My friend Christopher, who introduced me to Top of the Hilton, called it �the place you take someone when you�re having an affair,� but then later admitted he may have read that in an earlier Weekly review. So clandestine is this downtown oasis that the elevator doesn�t even give a floor number; just get in (the building�s main entrance is at 1301 Sixth, at University) and press T. The view sweeps from the Two Union Square courtyard, full of bare trees spangled with white lights, to Elliott Bay; Christopher says the sunsets are gorgeous. The bar/restaurant�s mellow mood, as you sit there floating above Seattle, is almost magically relaxing and conducive to conversation. Open for lunch and weekend brunch too, it�s especially delicious after an evening spent at Benaroya, the Paramount, or the 5th Avenue (or before, if you go for the $40 prix fixe pre-theater dinner, 5-7 p.m.) My lemon drop ($7) was perfect, smooth as the low golden lighting.

Topics: I Ate This

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PCC makes Seattle proud

I woke up to this news, on the front page of The Wall Street Journal: 34% of American adults are obese. I wanted to cry.

Thankfully, we live on a veritable oasis of health consciousness: Yesterday Seattle�s PCC Natural Markets, the nation�s largest natural foods coop, announced it�s pulling all products containing high fructose corn syrup (HFCS) from the shelves of all of its stores. They did a big survey, gave all the manufacturers who were still using the sweetener the chance to rethink their ingredient lists, and booted anything still containing HFCS, which has long been associated with rising obesity rates and the use of genetically-modified corn products.

Dammit, Seattle, I�m gonna cry. You make me so proud.

Topics: News

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New on the Scene: Vodka and Gin

I finally got to try the new Dry Fly vodka and gin this week, spirits distilled in our very own Spokane, Wash. (Backstory here) Wow and wow.

The vodka: it's not duodeca-distilled like all the other mass market vodkas available. The flavors are clean and bright, but there's still a residual aroma and flavor, more like a fine Japanese shochu, that gives you a hint at the grain that made the booze. This is a very pleasing, sipping vodka. Not right for olives, I'd go for a twist.

The gin: It's not juniper heavy, Dry Fly's gin is floral and fruity, more in the Hendrick's camp than the Tanqueray school. I kept smelling vague hints of somewhere between pear, apple, and currant, with a little peppery spice. Again, olives wouldn't be quite right with this spirit, I'd go for and orange or lemon twist or a light squeeze of lime. I wouldn't do anything more than a splash of Lillet or Calvados because it'd be a shame to cover up what Don Poffenroth gave it.

Not available for store purchase by we regular folk just yet (come on LCB, get it together!), ask your local barkeep if they plan on carrying it. With the way restaurants cheerlead for local wines, I expect many to fall all over themselves to stock Dry Fly.

In other neutral spirit news... Maui's Ocean Vodka, the organic, viscous deep seawater-based spiritwhich I wrote about a few months ago, isn't available in wide distribution in our state, but establishments can special order it. However, some liquor stores have started stocking it for single bottle purchase, namely: Seattle store #101 on 4th Ave. S., store #96 in U-Village, store #119 in Sammamish, and the Gig Harbor store #646. Call ahead to double check.

Topics: Boozamahol

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Food Section: November 28, 2007

Five interesting bits of food news from the ether:

Is Organic Better? It Depends by Carol Ness (SF Chronicle):
The Chron's no. 1 food-news reporter surveys the new crop of studies that appear to be showing that yes, organic produce may have more nutrients than conventional ones.

Better Cured Meat Begins on the Hoof by Jane Black (Washington Post)
Want better bacon? Raise better hogs. Urgh, wait, I feel a Dean Martin moment coming on...Mangalitsa, I adoreya, Mannn-galitsaaaaaaa.

Is Food Still Too Cheap? by Nicholas Day (Chow.com)
A wrap-up of news stories from Chow's Grinder blog about why soy, dairy, and eggs are getting so much more expensive, and why they're probably going to stay that way.

Drinks With a Little Meat on Their Bones by Paul Clarke (Serious Eats)
The author, sadly, has not tasted Seattle's own contribution to the genre.

And my favorite story of the month, possibly 2007:
Poultry Fat Spill Causes Stinky Mess (AP)
Sadly, there are no photos, but to watch a genius video pairing for this deee-licious story, be sure to click on the link in the comments section.

Topics: The Food Section

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TO DO List for the Winter Beer Festival

This weekend, Hale's Palladium hosts the Washington Beer Commission's 3rd annual Winter Beer Festival. The line up is fantastic, and you owe it to yourself to take the bus and try as many of the three dozen wallop-packing brews as you can. Here's my hit list of 5 beers that are not to be missed:

Georgetown Brewing Company's 9LB Porter: A bittersweet beer loaded with chocolate malt—available for $5 per growler at the brewery, it's been my happy hour killer.

Schooner Exact Hoppy Holiday Winter Ale: If you haven't tasted any of their beer yet, you're not trying hard enough. This beer will make limited appearances around town (Beveridge, Brouwer's), so don't skip a chance to try it this weekend.

Big Time Brewing Damned Spot Strong Scottish Ale: A new recipe from Big Time, this brew plays hide-n-seek with the alcohol. It hides, until you stand up and it finds you. Big Time has a knack for the strong ales, and I need something to get me out of my Old Rip (their oatmeal stout) winter rut.

Pike Brewing's Auld Acquaintance: This one's brought to you by Mrs. Finkel, a toasty amber that has notes of graham and orange. Dynamite with my leftover brussel sprout tagliatelle with walnuts, it's a finely balanced cold weather ale.

Boundary Bay Cabin Fever: Just enjoyed this beer on engine with a burger on Monday, one of my favorite local winter warmers. The flavor of this beer reminds me of younger tawny ports that still have some fruit character. Not that I'd call it fruity, this beer has a few brighter notes than most mega-malt warmers.

3rd Annual Winter Beer Festival
Hale's Palladium (round back of the pub)
4301 Leary Way NW, $23 adv/$25 door
Friday 5-10pm, Saturday 1-10pm
GO HERE to buy tix and GO HERE for more info

Topics: Beer

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$13 in Mini Doughnuts

What: Four Dozen Mini Doughnuts

Photos by Adriana Grant

Where: Daily Dozen Doughnut Co.,
Inside Pike Place Market, just a few stalls in from the news stand at Pike Street.

When: Every day.

Cost: $11.09 with tip =$13

Official Tasting Notes: The appeal of these tourist-friendly doughnuts is in their diminutive size. It's all about the cuteness factor. Tiny and puffed round, they're adorable. But what really sells these doughnuts is their smell: the scent of fried dough wafts through the market, drawing tourists and natives alike.

And really, that's it. These tiny puffy treats are nothing more than sweet fries. You'll want them hot, not wearing much more than a thin coat of still-wet oil.

We ordered a dozen of each, sampling all available varieties: chocolate frosted with sprinkles, powdered sugar, cinnamon sugar, and plain. The last two, least-dressed types were easily the best. Plus they were hot.

It seemed like the fancier varieties were not so popular, because they were cold. Better by far was the soft, steaming almost gooey dough of the plain and cinnamon sugar-dusted varieties. And after a half an hour or so, these two firmed up with a nice crust, still soft in their middles.

However, four dozen tiny doughnuts lingered a lot longer in the Seattle Weekly editorial office than I'd expected. By 5 p.m., not all of them had been eaten.

As previously reported on Voracious, The New York Times also visited this market stand recently.

Insider Tip: Buy only the warm ones, and stick to the plain and/or cinnamon sugar.

Would I eat it again? Yes. Though it's good to share.

Topics: 13 Dollars

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Brunch at Veil

Starting this Saturday, December 1st, Veil will begin offering weekend brunch. Herego, you may now start your Saturdays with a sensual bath of soft, pink light, clinking some variation of a mimosa (click on "dining" for brunch menu link) as you dig into duck confit hash or lavender-scented brioche French toast.

Personally, I'm already atwitter with what one wears to a shwanky, hip place for brunch. I mean, I'm all for fancy brunch, but sometimes being Veil-presentable on a weekend day just isn't an option. But I really want to taste oatmeal "risotto." So do I ignore the tick inside my head that for some reason prevents me from wearing jeans there? Suck it up and hop in the shower? Or stroll in wearing my nicest pink pajama set, maybe with some white furry slippers?

Either way, since brunch service will include bottomless crumbcake baked up by pastry chef Dana Cree, I'm sure I'll need something with pockets.

Is it weekend yet?

Brunch at Veil
Saturdays and Sundays, 9 a.m. � 2 p.m., beginning December 1st
555 Aloha St., 206.216.0600, QUEEN ANNE

Topics: News

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Pushing the EVOO Thing Too Far

I�ve started noticing a disturbing new trend in Seattle: serving a bread basket with salad dressing. It�s the natural evolution in a series of only-in-America culinary misappropriations, and if we don�t shame it away, it�s only going to get worse.

The problem, like so many of them, started in New York. In The United States of Arugula, David Kamp�s history of gourmet-ism in America, Kamp credits Sirio Maccioni, owner of New York�s legendary celeb spot Le Cirque, as the first restaurateur to pour extra-virgin olive oil into a little dish to serve with bread. EVOO, as that scary woman now calls it, was an exotic delicacy in the States in the early 1980s, and Maccioni would do the oil thing to show off his imported stock to choice customers. In Maccioni�s Tuscan family, dipping bread in olive oil was a family treat — a PB&J-like snack for kids, not something you�d ever see in a restaurant. Nevertheless, it soon became part of Le Cirque's shtick, and within a decade�s, part of everyone else�s.

Since melted bacon fat isn't as popular as it should be, I personally prefer my bread with room-temperature salted butter, but I won�t say no to a nice olive oil. Except restaurants just won�t be content with extra-virgin. When I moved to San Francisco in the early 1990s, waiters had started adding chopped garlic, fresh rosemary leaves, or fleur de sel to the bread dip. Then, a few years ago, these aromatic ingredients changed to balsamic vinegar.

Who first thought oil and balsamic for bread was a good idea? No clue, but I curse this anonymous �innovator� every time I�m given a saucer — to me, the electric twang of the vinegar always spoils good bread. As with emoticons and cell-phone belt holsters, though, it has become so common that it's not worth complaining anymore. I simply try to dab my bread into the spots where the oil is pooling most thickly on top.

Even balsamic is now too blase for some people. Last week, I went to two restaurants (here's the one I can tell you about right now) that served bowls of herbed olive oil with vinegar (or olive oil with herbed vinegar, whatevers). I suppose they were trying to take the balsamic-oil dip to that next step, like the people who give you a tiny ramekin of butter whipped with herbs or chopped mushrooms. But there�s one word for the mixture of olive oil, vinegar, and herbs I�ve been seeing: vinaigrette. It goes on your lettuce.

No matter how much you want to deny your carb consumption, people, bread is not a vegetable. Join with me to stop this madness. Immediately.

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Leftover Turkey and a Red Ryder BB Gun

Thanksgiving is more of a warm-up holiday in my family. The Friday after, also known as Volcano Day, is the main event. My parents came across this nutty recipe blending turkey, pineapple, coconut, and other ingredients that don't intuitively mix. You smother the whole thing with gravy and it kind of looks like someone barfed on your plate. We love it.

It's indulgent comfort food to be sure, but in our expanding circle of family and friends who participate, it also serves as ice-breaker. This year, one of my cousins was newly married. Another cousin and my brother both showed up with girlfriends meeting the family for the first time. It was a recipe for awkward silence and uncomfortable fidgeting, but throw in the volcanoes and there's always a conversation piece: "Really? Maraschino cherries?" Cherries indeed. We finished the night off with pie and A Christmas Story.

Here's the rundown:

1. Rice
2. Chinese Fried Noodles
3. Turkey
4. Gravy
5. Cheddar Cheese
6. Tomatoes
7. Celery
8. Green Onions
9. Crushed Pineapple
10. More Gravy
11. Coconut
12. Slivered Almonds
13. Cherries

Happy Volcano Day!

Topics: I Ate This

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NYT's Frugal Dining in Seattle: $500

Photo by Chris Kornelis

The New York Times' Matt Gross brought The Frugal Traveler to Seattle, and hit The Triple Door, Cascadia, and the Daily Dozen Donut Company in the Market.

Watch the video here.

Got a kick out this sentence:

To survive a weekend on a budget of just $500 — a fortune for grunge aficionados but a pittance for high-tech billionaires — happy hour, I knew, would be key, particularly since I intended to do little else but eat my way through the Emerald City on a visit earlier this year.

Just $500? You must have gone home starving! So frugal.

Update: The alpine martinis are $5.50, not $4.50 as The Times article says. And the mini burgers are $2.50, not $1.

Topics: News

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Dogs' First Thanksgiving

OK, so Thursday wasn't actually my dogs' first Thanksgiving, but it was the first one where I brought them in on the festivities. I felt that they, too, needed to give thanks and partake in a bountiful feast.

So my husband and I came up with a feast fit for a dog: a chicken broth starter, followed by boiled chicken and rice, and homemade doggie treats stuck together with peanut butter for dessert.

The entire meal took about 40 minutes to prepare and about four minutes for them to devour. Way to give thanks, guys.

Topics: Cook This

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