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Moishe's Off Broadway

Neal Schindler

Published on October 27, 2004

Even vegetarians can have guilty pleasures. In fact, non-meat-eaters can be just as bad to their bodies as their carnivorous counterparts; it was fettuccine Alfredo, after all, that once earned the nickname "heart attack on a plate." But some guilty pleasures aren't bad for you—they're just things you shouldn't order out since you could make them at home for less money. Moishe's makes a simple, mysteriously satisfying tofu sandwich that consists of toasted white bread, lightly marinated and grilled tofu, tomatoes, lettuce, and a few pickle slices—plus mayonnaise, which somehow promotes the thing from pedestrian fare to, well, really good pedestrian fare. The sandwich costs $4.40, which is probably triple what the ingredients would cost at the nearby QFC, but there's something about ordering from Capitol Hill's only Japanese deli (they also serve yakisoba and the like), and then sitting in the sun on the Seattle Central Community College campus and chomping away. It also makes perfect smuggle-in food if you're catching a matinee at the Egyptian Theatre across the street—provided you can keep from tucking into it before the light changes. 1601 Harvard Ave. E., 206-325-4992. CAPITOL HILL